Martin and Anna Arndorfer "Anina Verde" Kamptal 2022

Martin and Anna Arndorfer both come from a long line of winemakers in the Kamptal and Wachau region of Austria, and are thus able to make wine in a wide range of styles, from classic and polished to wild and funky. Some of my favorite wines from them have been the 'daughter wines' named after each of their three daughters. The rosé is named for Marie, the oldest, and the wine is made fermenting Zweigelt with Grüner Veltliner skins, a unique approach that has since spawned several delicious copycats across the globe. The Arndorfers are subversive in this way, pushing the boundaries in the highly-regarded, tradition-laden Kamptal region while keeping an eye on maximum pleasure and preservation of nature.

Anina Verde, named after their middle child Anina, uses a similar technique as the Rosa Marie, with Grüner Veltliner grapes being co-fermented with Riesling skins. Though it's technically an orange wine, it easily transcends the category. It's cloudy but smells like fresh beach seaspray. Lime, salt, pine notes continue the unique but healthy-feeling profile. Overall it's got a really fantastic balance of mineral freshness and chewy texture that takes it to another level of refreshment and complexity. It's a rare gift to be able to make wines with such original personalities that remain playful instead of provocative. Jonathan Kemp