Christoph Heiss Malinga "Vogel und Meer" 2021
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Press 4 White • November 2024 Direct Press Selection
Christoph Heiss is making wines from selected parcels of his family’s 12 hectares of wines in the eastern Kamptal. His project, Malinga, started in 2017 after he studied vine growing and winemaking in South Africa, New Zealand, and Germany. Now, working with his organically farmed and hand-harvested Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, Müller Thurgau, Welschriesling, Sauvignon Blanc, St. Laurent, Rotburger and Pinot Noir, he natural wines with spontaneous fermentations and small additions of SO2.
"Vögel und Meer" (Bird and Sea) is a blend of 67% Sauvignon Blanc and 33% Welschriesling from the organically-farmed Wohra and Ganslgraben vineyards, planted on loam over gneiss and loess. The Welschriesling is destemmed and pressed into used barrels, and the Sauvignon Blanc is pressed with the whole-bunches into the Welschriesling to ferment spontaneously for two weeks. The wine goes through malolactic conversion and is bottled dry. Welschriesling and Sauvignon Blanc are both high acid varieties with aromatic qualities, but the breadth of the palate and its savory aspects may surprise. The nose shows passionfruit, blood orange, and gooseberry, but also more savory notes like white pepper and ginger. The palate is long and vibrant with minerality and acidity. This is, technically, an “orange wine” - but one with the structure of a great white wine. Ben Fletcher
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