V. Puro "Alias" Branco 2019

V. Puro "Alias" Branco 2019

Regular price$34.00
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Nuno Mira do Ó comes from a long line of farmers, and he studied agricultural engineering to continue the family tradition. But along the way he fell in love with grape vines in a way he did not for chickens and cows. After being floored by some very old Baga made by an old farmer who knew nothing of modern winemaking, he became convinced that the old clones of Portuguese varieties, made with the highest level of care, were the way to make the kind of wines that moved him.

He works with fruit from several different regions in Portugal, and he tries to let the distinct character of the grapes’ origins take center stage. Because he works with several distinct regions, he is perhaps even more attuned to the unique characteristics of grapes grown near the sea. This is strikingly apparent in this cuvee, “Alias,” made from 100 year old vines of Bical not far from the Atlantic Ocean in Bairrada on limestone and clay soils. Deep, dense, and opulent, the wine has power but is still alight with zappy, briny acidity. Notes of golden currant, graham cracker, and a creamy luxuriousness are matched with salty texture and layers of complexity that bring to mind both Chenin Blanc and aged Riesling. A very special and moving wine from a man who is spanning all of Portugal for raw material, possessed by the passion of old vines. Jonathan Kemp

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