Soon after missionaries and conquistadores planted vines in the Baja peninsula in the 17th century, the wines were so successful the Spanish government tried to stop wine production over fears they would outpace wines from Spain itself. Modern Mexican wine is, sadly, often more of a novelty for tourists than a threat, but the wines from Noel Telléz of Bichi, in particular, are showing many that Baja still has the potential seen some 400 years ago.
The name Bichi means "naked" in the native language of Sonora, where Noel's family is from, and the bottles, fittingly, feature naked luchadores. The past few vintages have had ups and downs, and Noel's preference for zero sulfur has pushed some peoples' limits for funk. We've been down for the ride, and have found bottles each release that have kept us enamored with his project. The 2023 vintage, I'm happy to report, was exceptional. The wines are as accessible as they've ever been, and the pricing has gone down a bit. The funk is nearly absent but nothing of the playful, vivaciousness has been lost.
Plus, there are two new producers we've found in Baja's growing natural scene — Vinos Pijoan and Radicante — who are sparking a renewed excitement about Mexican wines.
We've tasted through the 2023 releases from Bichi, Pijoan, and Radicante and put together a discounted 3-pack to showcase what has most lit up our palates. Below you can read up on additional wines to explore as well.
Here's a quick rundown of all three Baja producers:
Noel Téllez of Bichi left his career in law to start Bichi with his brother Jair, a chef. They dove into the deep end of the natural wine pool after meeting Louis-Antoine Luyt, a French expat living in Chile who helped to champion natural Chilean wines. Noel now runs Bichi by himself, and works with some very special vineyards, notably a dry-farmed vineyard near Ensenada planted to Italian varieties in the 1940s like Dolcetto, Lambrusco, and Friulano.
Radicante is a new project led by Oscar Mancillas, who grew up in Ensenada but left to make wine in California, Spain, and France's Rhône Valley. It was Noel Telléz of Bichi who got him to return to Baja in 2022.
Vinos Pijoan was founded in 2002 in the Valle de Guadalupe just north of Ensenada by Pau Pijoan. Pau’s daughter, Silvana, now makes the estate's natural wines and manages their vines. Silvana has a background as a classical dancer with a degree from the National School of Classic and Contemporary Dance in Mexico City. They are dedicated to dry farming their vines, which is uncommon in their arid climate and sun-drenched terrain. They farm regeneratively and organically.
What excited us so much about this group of wines was the finesse and the freshness despite the heat. The ideal conditions they saw in 2023 may not repeat themselves, but the vision and passion of this group of winemakers is in it for the long haul. Things are in flux in Baja, where vineyard land is expensive due to the tourism but many of the slick wineries built to cater to this audience are nevertheless going up for sale. With any luck, this will create an opportunity for people inspired by the work of Noel, Silvana, Oscar to keep up the task of delivering on Baja's promise.
Cheers,
Jonathan, Jeremy, and Kate
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| Bichi "El Prince" Valle de Guadelupe 2023 |
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| 50% Dolcetto, 40% Lambrusco, and 10% Friulano from the San Antonio las Miñas vineyard, a plot of 85 year-old dry-farmed Italian varieties near the sea in Ensenada. The fog here helps preserve the acidity, a critical advantage in Baja. This wine is a banger, a light, chillable red with vivid, high-toned notes of hibiscus, raspberry, and smooth, beautifully ripe fruit without any funk despite zero sulfur additions. An exciting, gorgeous wine from a great vintage in Baja. ~Jonathan Kemp |
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| Vinos Pijoan "Pobre Diabla" Guadalupe Red 2023 |
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| A coferment of 80% Grenache and 20% Muscat grown on granite and iron-rich, red soils. This is a vibrant blend that almost presents as a white wine if you close your eyes. Aromas of herbs, a light spice note, and a hint of sumac are mixed with crayon wax, pomegranate, and mandarin orange. The palate is an invigorating and balanced mix of strawberry, spice, tar, kelp (possibly due to proximity to the ocean), and salinity. This wine has energy for days! Zero sulfur added. ~Jeremy Hernandez |
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| Radicante "Entreolivos" Tinto Valle de Guadalupe 2023 |
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| Mostly Grenache with a splash of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, this displays Oscar's skills from his time in the Rhône. The Grenache is picked fairly late, resulting in a richer, fuller wine, but there are layers of tannin and chewy herbal notes that make the wine quite balanced. It falls somewhere between a Vacqueyras and Garnacha de Gredos, which is fitting since the vines are planted in a similar terrain of rugged mountains and big rocks. Some crunchy apple notes on the finish leave one with a feeling of freshness and lift. Pair with lamb chops, cassoulet, or a hearty winter stew. Fermented in steel and aged for 6 months in neutral 500L barrel. ~Jonathan Kemp |
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| Radicante "Todos Contentos" Tinto Valle de Guadalupe 2023 |
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| A blend of Grenache and Rosa del Peru, this is a light, silky, chillable red along the lines of a l'Anglore Tavel. It's made with a 10 day whole cluster 'infusion' method with lighter extraction. Alpine strawberry, basil, and lime notes with minerals and umami. Lively and just super tasty. Small sulfur addition <15ppm at bottling. ~Jonathan Kemp |
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| Bichi "Azul el Heroe" Valle de Guadelupe 2023 |
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| Grenache, Carignan, and Zinfandel from Tecate, this is crunchy, super clean, and deliciously ethereal. Beets, raspberry, hibiscus, and sleek texture, there is a nice concentration and ripeness to the fruit with a lot of freshness and clarity, like a great cup of Chemex. ~Jonathan Kemp |
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| Dolcetto from 85 year-old vines in the San Antonio la Miñas vineyard in Ensenada. When cuttings from Italy were shipped over by an oenologist in the 1940s, all the different varieties got mixed up on the voyage, so it was only in the past few years that these grapes were identified as Dolcetto. "No Sapiens" is made in a traditional Beaujolais carbonic method as employed by producers like Lapierre. It's light and elegant but has complex, darker hues and some fine, grippy tannins. Blueberry, rooibos, and black tea notes with umami. Zero sulfur added but zero funk at the moment; just plenty of soul. ~Jonathan Kemp |
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| Bichi "Pepe Nat" Red Pet Nat 2023 |
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| 100% Dolcetto from the Santa Antonia de las Minas vineyard, this is the same fruit that goes into the No Sapiens cuvee. It's a fully red Pet Nat with all the grip and chewy tannins that entails. Black cherry, horehound, and sandalwood notes give this a kind of Emilia-Romagna vibe, so naturally it is a versatile gastronomic tool that will pair deliciously with anything from chorizo to pizza to spicy Indian take out. This one is named for his three-legged dog, Pepito. Be forewarned, this is a genuine Pet Nat that is not disgorged: take care to open it in a bowl or a space where some gushing can safely happen. The wine inside is well-worth the unpredictable exuberance. ~Jonathan Kemp |
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