Good Old Bordeaux
Extremely limited library releases and cellar selections, along with our favorite current classics
Stephanie and Michel Theron of Clos du Jaugueyron are inviting a whole new group of wine drinkers back to experience the historic appeal of Bordeaux. Illustration by Jonathan Kemp
Bordeaux is one of those very famous regions that has been infused with so much prestige and money over the years that it stands in stark contrast to the scrappy vignerons that we usually advocate for. Arguably France's largest wine region, it is a big enough place that some of those types of small-production winemakers call it home — Clos du Jaugueyron's Stephanie and Michel Theron among them.
While ages of corporate and foreign investments have spoiled Bordeaux in some ways, it is nevertheless a region capable of making profound wines. There have also been many famous estates who have converted to organic and Biodynamic farming practices recently, including Palmer, Latour, d'Yquem, and Angelus. This approach to the vineyards is no longer a fringe philosophy, as climate destruction is making the benefits far more clear.
As a wine drinker, it is hard to deny the appeal of classic Bordeaux, especially with age. I am a huge fan myself, especially with the positive changes happening there. We're excited to have a collection of older Bordeaux at a range of prices to offer. These are all extremely limited and it's a rare opportunity to grab some distinguished vintages from storied estates, including 1979 Latour, 1982 Gruaud-Larose, and 1990 Angelus.
In addition to the older, more famous names, we're excited to have some of the new releases Clos du Jaugueyron. This is a small estate that fully embraces the natural wine ethos while making poignant, age-worthy classics. Their Cabernet-driven wines are a perfect entry point into Bordeaux for many who are typically loyal Burgundy or Loire. Yet somehow they are simultaneously satisfying the serious Bordeaux lover as well.
Whether you're new to Bordeaux or a die-hard fan of top-growth estates, hopefully there's something here for everyone, as we've included all of our current Bordeaux selection starting at just $12 for the Biodynamically-farmed Chateau Le Bergey and going up to the 1990 Angelus for $795.
Cheers!
Jonathan
jonathan@vwm.wine
| The cellar selections below are very limited — please inquire with any questions about fill levels and additional bottles that may be available. |
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| Chateau le Bergey Bordeaux Rouge 2020 |
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$12.00
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Real Bordeaux at a shockingly great price. Biodynamically farmed and seriously well crafted, this is a great everyday drinker. Mostly Merlot, medium bodied, berry fruited and little spicy.
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| Chateau La Grolet Bordeaux Cotes de Bourg 2019 |
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$20.00
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Another impressive value from Bordeaux, this right-bank blend of mostly Merlot shows off the earthy complexity of classic Bordeaux with just the right amount of fruit and lift. Unlike Burgundy, you can actually find terrific wines from Bordeaux that faithfully show the region's hallmarks — for very reasonable prices. Catherine and Jean-Luc Herbert and their family farm the region's largest Biodynamic estate.
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| Buy Now |
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| Maison Blanche "Le Colombier de la Metairie" Montagne St Emilion Bordeaux 2016 |
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$28.00
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The second label of Maison Blanche, this is an entry into their very old-school style of Bordeaux. Cabernet Franc in the mix along with Merlot adds a leaner, bell pepper edge to their wines. They are never showy, but restrained and poised. These shine with steak, where the tannic structure and the mineral notes sit perfectly and quietly elevate the meal.
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| Maison Blanche Montagne Saint-Émilion 2018 |
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$42.00
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The current release from this doggedly anti-modern Bordeaux estate. Old vines, certified Biodynamic farming, hand-harvested, and low-tech cellar practices with little sulfur added. And yet these are as classic as can be, nothing rustic or funky, just satiating and fine-tuned expressions of Montagne-Saint-Emilion's clay-dominant soils. Drinkable now with some decanting but will age for 20+ years.
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| Le Puy "Emilien" 2017 |
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$53.00
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An invitingly bright, peppery nose, with red currant and cedar tones. Approachable upon opening, the wine is luxurious and silky, with notes of black cherry, plum and baking spice. Full-bodied, with polished tannins and balanced acidity with a long, earthy finish. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Carmenere. Le Puy is located on a limestone plateau that stretches to Pomerol and Saint Emilion, and is one of the highest elevation sites in Bordeaux. While other Bordeaux shines with beef, Le Puy's brighter style is what you want for poultry and game birds. Certified Biodynamic starting in 2015.
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| Maison Blanche Montagne Saint-Émilion 2000 |
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$78.00
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A library release direct from Maison Blanche's cellar. This is a superb vintage from the estate and is now in a prime spot for drinking. The lift and elegance is still there, with a lovely, detailed, earthy complexity. This is a great way to experience the pleasures of cellar-aged Bordeaux without breaking the bank. Spend the money you save at Prospect Butcher or Paisano's on a two-inch ribeye and go crazy.
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| Clos du Jaugueyron Haut-Médoc 2017 [2 btls max per person] |
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$47.00
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Michel Theron is pushing the boundaries of Bordeaux by painstaking vineyard work and selection. In his Cabernet Sauvignon dominated wines the fruit has a vibrance and clarity that I associate more with Burgundy than Bordeaux. And yet they sacrifice none of the solid structure and brooding depth one seeks in Bordeaux. This is always one of the more profound bottles under $50 I have the pleasure of drinking each year. Biodynamic since 2008.
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| Clos du Jaugueyron Margaux 2016 |
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$130.00
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The flagship wine from Jaugueyron expresses all the lush power and grace of Margaux. Where most wines of this caliber require a huge operation that encompasses a Chateau owner with a team and a depth chart that rivals a pro sports team, at Jaugueyron it is done just by Michel and Stephanie Theron and a few other helping hands. This is one to cellar a bit before drinking. Wait a year or two if you can't help yourself, but it is built to age beautifully until the end of the world — which is hopefully more than 30 years away.
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| The cellar selections below are very limited — please inquire with any questions about fill levels and additional bottles that may be available. |
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![Image of Clos du Jaugueyron Haut-Médoc 2017 [2 btls max per person]](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1270/3173/products/image_fca02d08-9bdc-47f1-b47c-993e9de484e9.jpg?v=1642616846)
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