Prima Piuma Monferrato Nebbiolo 2020
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Direct Press Selection | October 2022
Summer Wolff and Fabrizio Iuli have quite a community of fellow winemakers in the Monferrato hills, and they are bringing neighbors into the natural wine world as well. Their neighbor, Azienda Agricola Gaia, had beautiful organic fruit that he needed help selling, so Summer and Fabrizio work some of the vineyard rows themselves and collaborate with Gaia's oenologist Gianluca Ravizza to make the Prima Piuma wines. Though he was resistent to fermenting with wild yeasts and eschewing sulfur, the hands-off Iuli approach has now prevailed.
The Nebbiolo from Prima Piuma is a lovely example of how this grape variety can be more finessed and ethereal in the Monferrato region than in Langhe. Black plum, cherry, and oolong tea, this wine has a lot of grippy, silty tannins to sink your teeth into but it retains a terrific freshness. There is a silky, viscous, savory depth that is particularly tasty. I would not have guessed it had zero sulfur added or that it was 15% abv. It is a dangerously drinkable wine, so make sure you have some agnolotti or ossobucco to help soak up this one. Jonathan Kemp