Matthias Warnung "Whitey" Weisswein 2019
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Direct Press Selection | October 2021
- Press 4 Mix
- Press 4 White
Mattias Warnung, along with Anna and Martin Arndorfer, is among a small group making natural wine in the Kamptal — most of the natural winemakers in Austria are centered around Gols, in the Burgenland. The Kamptal has a higher pedigree in fine wine circles, which means most prefer to trade on the region's traditional esteem rather than going against the grain. But Warnung is of a younger generation and he spent several vintages working with Craig and Carla Hawkins, of Testalonga in South Africa. They made the first orange wine in South Africa and use zero sulfur. Matthias Warnung took over his family's 10 hectares of Kamptal vines in 2010 and employs similar methods.
The Whitey Weisswein is a mix of Müller-Thurgau, Welchsriesling, and Grüner Veltliner. The Müller-Thurgau is picked first and starts fermenting, then whole cluster direct pressed juice from Welchsriesling and Grüner are added. This is zappy and delicious, with Sweet Tart and Sour Patch Kids competing with some salty umami. Really vivid and alive, it still feels approachable and friendly despite the high-acid bite. Pair it with end of season tomatoes, spinach risotto, or Thai take-out. [Jonathan Kemp, June 2021]