Margins Muscat Contra Costa 2020
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Direct Press Selection | April 2022
[PRESS 4 WHITE]
While Martha Stoumen is nearly a household name in natural wine these days, Megan Bell is just starting to get recognition for her work that echoes Martha’s approach, working with lesser-known organic vineyards on the ‘margins’ of California’s wine regions. Megan is young but already known for being extremely scrutinizing of her fruit suppliers, in addition to farming and managing her own vines. Her exacting standards really show in all the wines I tasted from her. She is working with some beautifully farmed grapes, that is for sure.
This Muscat from Cecchini Ranch is mouth-watering and refreshing. Sometimes dry Muscat smells sweet and is jarring to your brain when it’s really dry. This is really peachy but the palate is lush and viscous, with just enough citrusy bite on the finish. Perfect as an aperitif or with sushi, it’s deeply satiating and delicious and shows off far more dimension and texture than I was expecting. 50% is whole cluster direct press and the other half is destemmed and sees two days of skin contact, but it’s not orange at all. It is a fun contrast in New-Wave American styles, compared to Matha’s leaner, crunchier Post-Flirtation White, also included in this month's wine club. Though Megan’s wines are new to me, I am totally on board with her style and can’t wait to get more of her wines on our shelves. Keep an eye out for her Mourvèdre. [Jonathan Kemp, March 2022]