Les Vins Pirouettes 'Brutal de Jean Marc' 2020
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A blend of Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Gewurztraminer with time on the skins. This is not an especially tannic orange wine, but there is just enough crunchy apple skin texture to give structure to the mix of aromatic grape varieties. Salty lychee, chamomile, lime, marmalade, and ruby red grapefruit pith, all in a refreshing package that is energetic and lifted. If you're not into orange wines, this may change your mind. If you already love them, this is only going to get you in deeper.
This comes from Christian Binner's group of Pirouettes winemakers in Alsace, and though Jean-Marc Dreyer is one of the most elusive of the bunch, he makes our favorite Pirouettes orange wine. This typically goes fast, so three bottles per customer until it's gone. Jonathan Kemp