Ghislaine Barthod Bourgogne Rouge "Les Bons Batons" 2018 [2 bottles max per customer]
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I've had a hard time finding Red Burgundies that I've truly loved from the 2018 vintage. Record breaking temperatures created lush, bold wines, that were dense and powerful, and in some instances lacking acidity - even from some of my favorite producers.
Ghislaine Barthod's "Les Bons Bâtons" is still something of well kept secret. The plot rests between Chambolle-Musigny and Gilly-lès-Cîteaux, and produces fruit at the same quality of the top villages surrounding it. Year after year this wine showcases why Bourgogne level bottlings still offer some of the best values in France.
Grapes are mostly destemmed, and given a short cold soak before being fermented with native yeast in stainless steel vats. The cap was gently managed over 3 weeks with a combination of punchdowns and pump-overs, before the wine was transferred to old barrels and given a 18 month rest. This is the same aging regiment she gives her Premier Cru wines, proving that this is Bourgogne built for the long haul.
True to form, Ghislaine was able to tame the intensity of the vintage into a high-toned, refined and mouthwatering elixir, without bypassing the ripeness of the ripeness of the vintage. An effusive nose of crushed violet, blood orange rind and wild strawberry leads the charge. Medium-bodied and packing lots of complexity into its tightly wound core, this wine has made think twice about totally giving up on 2018.
[Kirk Sutherland, September 2021]