Clos du Jaugueyron Haut-Médoc 2017 [2 btls max per person]
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This is maybe the gateway wine for fans of Loire and Burgundy to get into Bordeaux. Michel and Stephanie Theron walk the thin line between fresh, vibrant, natural wine, and classic Bordeaux.
In their Cabernet Sauvignon dominated wines the fruit has a vibrance and clarity that I associate more with Burgundy than Bordeaux. And yet they sacrifice none of the solid structure and brooding depth one seeks in Bordeaux. This is always one of the more profound bottles under $50 I have the pleasure of drinking each year. Biodynamic since 2008.
If only there were more that could pull it off, but that makes this even more special. The finesse and nervous detail is thrilling, with sultry, dark fruit lifted up by a bright elegance that speaks to an auteur's level of grape selection and elevage. But all of that is in the service of translating meticulous Biodynamic viticulture. Open up a few hours in advance or decant. Then get a second one to age for 5-10 years.