Stein 'Palmberg' Riesling Kabinett Trocken 2022
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Press 2 • November 2023 Direct Press Selection
Palmberg is Stein's best vineyard, a breathtaking ampitheater at a sheer pitch that hovers over the small village of Sankt Aldegund. I could barely get a foothold in this vineyard of single-stake, ungrafted vines that were planted nearly a century ago. This is easily one of the best vineyards in the Mosel, and Stein's careful preservation of these older Riesling clones has been a lifetime's labor of love for him.
The result is a wine that is as invigorating and ripping as sticking a fork in an electrical outlet while eating a bag of sour patch kids. Sterling, righteous and crystal clear. The piercing acidity makes this wine a fantastic candidate for long term aging, but given time to open up, it shows the energy of the unadulterated old vines it came from. The nose is chalky and packed with lemon pez, candied ginger and Mirabelle plum. Mouthwatering, mineral and exciting, the definition of stony. With air, juicy Meyer lemon and canned pineapple joyfully jump from the glass. Decant to drink it now, but I think giving this some time will be beneficial for all our members. It will easily age for a decade or two. Stein's wines have the muscle and energy to benefit from cellaring, but they are also not short on precision, detail, and vivacious finesse. Jonathan Kemp