Luis Perez 'El Muelle de Olaso' Blanco Cadiz 2021
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Direct Press Selection • November 2022
Press 4 White
Looking back, this year it felt like we found the most unique wines in familiar places. By looking beyond the surface in regions like Piedmont and countries like Chile, we learned about local grape varieties and individual heroic efforts to preserve and celebrate traditional methods and vineyard sites. I thought ‘El Muelle de Olaso’ represented this spirit so well.
Luis Perez Rodriguez is a professor of oenology at Cadiz University and in 2002, along with his son Willy, he launched this project with the goal of highlighting the storied terroirs of Andalucia. They are not doing this by way of the traditionally oxidized and fortified sherry wines —but by making energetic and expressive table wines from local varieties grown on the region’s unique albarizo (chalky) soils.The Palomino grapes for ‘El Muelle de Olaso’ are fermented in stainless steel tanks, with about 20% of the fruit quickly sundried and fermented in used sherry casks. The portion fermented in cask is racked in December and then blended with the stainless steel wine and aged together on the lees in tanks for 6 months. This all translates into a white wine with salty overtones, with touch more weight and persistency, ending with a tropical flavor that made me think of a cherimoya (sugar apple), with it's custardy, slightly funky flavor. Bruno Sant’Anna