Weninger Furmint vom Kalk 2018Regular price $24.00 Save $-24.00
Direct Press Selection | October 2021
- Press 4 White
Furmint is a variety more commonly found in Hungary, and Franz Weninger works with it in both Austria and Hungary. The border between the two countries was formed in the 1920s and the Weninger family, like many in the Burgenland region, has roots on both sides — the Weningers have been a winemaking family there since 1828. Franz took over a vineyard in Sopron, Hungary, before taking over the family's Austrian operations as well, converting them to Biodynamics in 2006.
Franz is one of the most active farmers in around terms of pushing for more environmentally-friendly methods, and he had to have a thick skin back before the natural wine movement took off in earnest. People genuinely thought he was crazy when he began using Biodynamic practices and he had a difficult time selling his wines after the 2008 economic crisis. His vineyards are now populated with sheep, birds, shrubs, trees, wildflowers, and insects. He feels "if you do not want to have picnic in your vineyard, there is no point of making wine out of those vineyards." Just watch out for the sheep dung before you spread out your picnic blanket.
His Austrian Furmint is from a vineyard called Kalkofen, planted to chalky soils, giving this a crackling, clean backbone of acidity. Aged 10 months in 500L neutral barrel, with just 9ppm of total sulfur. It's only 9.5% abv (!) but not underripe or sweet. Instead, it's super-lean and zippy, a racy, crunchy tonic of lemons, almonds, and minerals. The low alcohol level makes this a great pairing with spicy food, but just as good as an aperitif with some salty snacks. [Jonathan Kemp, September 2021]