Direct Press Selection | September 2021

• Press 4 Mix
• Press 4 Red

With the establishment of the Etna DOC in the 1960's came an end to the historic practice of making wines in Palmento - a stone structure carved out of the mountain itself, where winemakers of yesteryear pressed their grapes into volcanic stone vats. Italian wine bureaucrats forbid this practice due to hygienic concerns - making wine in Mountain itself was too hard to keep clean. Recently, under the guidance of Etna's most renowned viticulturist and enologist, founder of I Vigneri, Salvo Foti,  some estates have fought to reestablish these ancient structures and persevere this piece of Sicilian history. Palmento Costanzo has done just this.

Located in the Cru of Contrada Santo Spirito, Palmento Costanzo has been creating wine in their reclaimed winery since 2012. They tend to their bush-trained vines, some of which are over 120 years old, organically with focus on preserving biodiversity in their vineyards. Mofete Rosso is 80% Nerello Mascalese and 20% Nerello Cappuccio, from younger vines (30 years on average), fermented in stainless steel and aged in a combination of tank and old barrels. 2017 was an incredibly difficult vintage on Etna - drought and extreme heat lead to significantly reduced yields. The resulting wines can range from rich and powerful to concentrated yet elegant depending on when growers chose to pick. Luckily, Palmento Costanzo is on the elegant side of things. The wine is wonderfully red-fruited, savory and volcanic mineral laden. Undeniably Mediterranean, with peppery, spicy earth, black currant and sour cherry fruit backed by fine-grained tannin and a lengthy, saline packed finish.

[Kirk Sutherland, September 2021]