{"title":"JUNE\/JULY 2026 DIRECT PRESS: VDF Declassé: Declassified France","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/Zine_Two_Page_June_July_2026.png?v=1780509183\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"text-align: left;\"\u003e\n\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDeclassified: A Special Report On How France's AOC System Is Forcing Winemakers To Go Rogue\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-color=\"rgb(255, 255, 255)\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003eFrance's labeling system, the \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eappellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC for short)\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003e has been in peril for decades now. Why? While lowering standards to accommodate the interests of the biggest producers and cooperatives they are aggressively policing natural wines. The result has been to discourage younger winemakers from seeking AOC status, to the detriment of winemakers and wine lovers alike.\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-color=\"rgb(255, 255, 255)\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-color=\"rgb(255, 255, 255)\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003eAll of the wines featured this month are declassified from the French AOC system, yet they embody the spirit of the original institution better than many official AOC wines. They are from some of our favorite producers: \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOlivier Cousin, Christian Ducroux, Matassa, Domaine l'Ecu, Coutelou, Ozil, Marc Pesnot, Martin Texier, Bruno Duchêne, and Cyril Fhal.\u003c\/strong\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-color=\"rgb(255, 255, 255)\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-color=\"rgb(255, 255, 255)\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003eThe AOC system was once a venerable institution that helped rescue the wine trade less than a century ago from widespread fraud. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWhat happened and what can be done?\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-color=\"rgb(255, 255, 255)\"\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-color=\"rgb(255, 255, 255)\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRead more in this month's Direct Press.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBy Jonathan Kemp\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/JUNE_JULY_2026_DIRECT_PRESS_V1_Web.pdf?v=1780504750\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003cspan style=\"font-family: 'Century Gothic', CenturyGothic, AppleGothic, sans-serif; font-weight: 400; font-style: normal;\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 16px;\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #fff; text-decoration: none; display: inline-block; background: #5A72A1; font-family: Arial, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: bold; line-height: 100%; letter-spacing: 0; margin: 0; text-transform: none; padding: 15px 40px 15px 40px; mso-padding-alt: 0; border-radius: 0;\"\u003eContiue reading\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","products":[{"product_id":"mas-coutelou-vin-des-amis-2024","title":"Mas Coutelou \"Vin des Amis\" 2024","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cb\u003ePress 4 Red • June\/July 2026 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eJeff Coutelou was one of the first to be certified organic in France — back in 1987! His neighbors were not accepting of his methods. When he planted hedges to help block their chemical sprays from coming into his vines, they burned them down. Several times, and fairly recently. Today he continues to take on work that many others do not have the patience or commitment for, like restoring obscure, nearly forgotten varieties to combat the effects of global warming; and planting thousands of olive, almond, fig, and fruit trees for future generations. Coutelou is hardcore about not using sulfur. None of his wines have sulfur added and haven't for quite some time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\"Vin des Amis\" is one of his most popular wines, a blend of Cinsault, Grenache, and Syrah. It's got the darker tones and tannin you'd expect to find in this kind of Languedoc blend — olive, blackberry, fig, Assam tea — but the wow factor is in how fresh and vibrant it is. Juicy, lively, and a long finish that truly should please all of your friends. \u003cem\u003eJonathan Kemp\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"CAMILLE 3:30PM 4cs","offers":[{"title":"Red","offer_id":47091492258027,"sku":null,"price":30.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/BFD56C62-63E4-4D61-970F-C9AFC22D2D6E.jpg?v=1763844574"},{"product_id":"matassa-cuvee-marguerite-2025","title":"Matassa \"Cuvee Marguerite\" 2025","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cb\u003ePress 2 • June\/July 2024 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eTom Lubbe is a Kiwi ex-pat making wine in France's Roussillon and for several decades he has been lighting up the natural wine community with his Matassa label. These wines have become more sought-after in the past few years, and we hate to tell you, but the hype is well-deserved.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eHis philosophy in terms of farming has always been thoughtful and non-conformist. Worms and cover crops are what he sees as the most transformative elements in keeping his land healthy; he hasn't used any sulfur since 2015. Fires exacerbated by drought conditions came for his vines in 2022, wiping out significant portions of vineyards. In August 2022 he said, \"apart from the vineyards touched by fire and wild pigs it looks like a lovely year so far.\" \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eThe wines have a buoyant, lighthearted bent which belies Tom's earnest vineyard work and land stewardship. They are complex and reflect terroir but this is usually overshadowed by how delicious and pleasurable they are. Matassa wines rarely fail to deliver, on their own or with sophisticated cuisine composed on small plates with tweezers. Whether at Septime, Frenchette, or in Brooklyn apartments, they bring joy to the table.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eCuvee Marguerite is a blend of Macabeu, Muscat d’Alexandria, Muscat Petit Grain co-fermented on their skins for 5-7 days in concrete then aged on their lees in large used oak foudres. The resulting wine is complex yet immediately accessible with tropical fruit wafting out of the glass and flavors of salty cooked pineapple, herbs, and soft yet present tannins.  \u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\n\u003cem\u003eJonathan Kemp \u0026amp; Jeremy Hernandez\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"DRESSNER 2:00 3cs\/$300","offers":[{"title":"Orange • Skin Contact","offer_id":48477549396203,"sku":null,"price":43.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/380BBEDE-C977-4731-8F3A-E5C5CA2A1C32.jpg?v=1780085100"},{"product_id":"olivier-cousin-pur-breton-2024","title":"Olivier Cousin \"Pur Breton\" 2024","description":"\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cb\u003ePress 4 Mix\/Red • June\/July 2026 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOlivier Cousin is in semi-retirement these days. He has fully earned his stars as a natural wine pioneer in the Loire Valley. He's scaled back his production and given up most of his acreage to his son Baptiste, who is a leading natural wine figure in his own right. Cousin's wines are still as wild and uncompromising as ever, yet I also am pleased to find they withstand a level of scrutiny that separates them from lots of natural wine that is later to the party. They are not just funky, they are not simply a checklist of clichéd natural wine 'flaws.' Instead, they are deep, soulful wines with structure, power, and a playful spirit — and some funk, of course, but not enough to dominate, only enough to add layers and color. Cousin is not cashing in on a trend, he is a true believer who has gone on trial, literally, for making wine the way he does.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e'Pur Breton' is 100% Cabernet Franc, planted in the 1980s. The grapes are hand-harvested, brought to the winery by a horse, destemmed and gently pressed. Only natural yeasts are used and the juice undergoes an extended maceration. Aged in old oak barrels. It's a crunchy wine this vintage, lighter and snappier than previous versions. \u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003eAromatically complex, with dried flowers, wild raspberry, and a whiff of the horse barn. Blueberry skin, white pepper, and a little graphite. Mouth-coating but light and invigorating all the same. Chill it down for lamb burgers, grilled asparagus, or \u003cem\u003ebo ssam.\u003c\/em\u003e Zero sulfur added. \u003cem\u003eJonathan Kemp\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"JENNY \u0026 FRANCOIS 2:30 4cs\/$400","offers":[{"title":"Red","offer_id":48599599907051,"sku":null,"price":30.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/F495DC42-8900-41A9-9351-1B30C9D0F7C7.jpg?v=1780083578"},{"product_id":"martin-texier-cerouan-2023","title":"Martin Texier \"Cerouan\" 2023","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePress 2 • June\/July 2026 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMartin Texier is taking over the vines and wines from his dad Eric Texier, who has been an outspoken advocate for the unheralded Northern Rhone appellation of Brèzéme and for natural wine made with intention and precision. Mostly this means working your butt off in the vineyard, as Martin has discovered. Al\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003el of the vines he grows have been organically grown from the outset and he never uses chemicals in his wines save for a tiny bit of sulfur depending on the vintage. He found quickly that making zero sulfur wines required him to work even harder in the vineyard in order to have grapes healthy enough to successfully vinify without additives. \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCerouan is 100% Serine and is from the same vineyard that made Eric Texier's \"Le Clau\" that was featured in Direct Press a few years back. \u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003eIt's made from a selection of very old vines planted in the 1930s. Some think Serine is an older clone of Syrah but they differ enough that ampelographers are not even sure it's Syrah at all. It could be an extremely rare variety such as Bravade or Exbrayat, no one is sure. It does differ from Syrah in that it has far less black olive notes and is fully ripe at lower potential alcohol levels. It's destemmed, fermented and aged in barrel, and has less than 10ppm of sulfur added. It smells fantastic, lush and brambly with blackberry, cacao, and a tinge of bitter herbs and tarragon. Complex but polished, it's a satiating, soulful wine. Perfect for grilling season, but not so bad for sipping near a warm hearth in inclimate weather, either. \u003cem\u003eJonathan Kemp\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"SELECTION MASSALE 2:30 4cs\/$400","offers":[{"title":"Red","offer_id":48599862051051,"sku":null,"price":53.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/FDB76DEC-8C41-4B58-8AC6-2B5AA05FB2B9.jpg?v=1780083930"},{"product_id":"domaine-ozil-bois-blanc-2024","title":"Domaine Ozil 'Bois' Blanc 2024","description":"\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cb\u003ePress 4 Mix\/White • June\/July 2026 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen it came time for 5th generation brothers and winegrowers Thomas and Jean Daniel Ozil they were compelled to change the trajectory of their 16 hectare family farm towards Organic viticulture and vinifying their own grapes instead of selling to the local cooperative. After working with Ardeche veteran natural winemaker Gilles Azzoni they felt confident enough to strike out on their first vintage in 2013 with the intention of making additive free wines.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe “Bois” Blanc 2024 is a blend of 70% Marsanne and 30% Sauvignon Blanc, which the Sauvignon Blanc is not typical for the appellation rules. When asked if they have ever considered seeking appellation status by the great Wine Terroirs blog, Thomas replied,”No, you have to pay, you have to get the tasting-agreement approval, fit into a mold, it’s everything we don’t like.” With this determination they are able to create blends and cultivate grapes they wouldn’t otherwise be allowed to under appellation guidelines. In our opinion it’s the freedom to make informed decisions like this that make natural wine so compelling.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Sauvignon Blanc lends a noted lift and brightness to a Rhone grape that can become flabby and one note if left unchecked. Notes of lemon, bright herbal tones of lemongrass yield to a palate of orange oil, salinity, a hint of spice, and lifted minerality. Pair with herb salads and fish dishes. \u003cem\u003eJeremy Hernandez\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"CAMILLE 3:30PM 4cs","offers":[{"title":"White","offer_id":48600791711979,"sku":null,"price":30.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/691633D9-2C56-4CE7-8C9A-990515028094.jpg?v=1780083788"},{"product_id":"christian-ducroux-prologue-vdf-2025","title":"Christian Ducroux 'Prologue' VdF 2025","description":"\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cb\u003ePress 4 Mix\/Red • June\/July 2026 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eChristian’s four hectares in Thulon, in the hills above Regnié, have been organically farmed since the 1980s and are Demeter certified Biodynamic. (The estate was originally seven-plus hectares, but Christian reduced it to four, in order to more properly manage it himself). He has trees between every five rows of vines, with hedges on the sides and a wild proliferation of vegetation between the vines which is controlled by horse-drawn \"griffages\" (\"scratching\" or very shallow plowing). The vineyard is almost entirely self-sufficient, with horse and bull-power and natural fertilizers made on the farm. Rot and mildew are controlled by natural sprays, as Christian seeks to reduce or eliminate the use of the permitted organic sulfur and copper solutions. Even in mid-winter, a walk through his vines shows the benefits of a living soil, moist and teeming with life, unaffected by the erosion and sickness of the vineyards around him.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAnd the wines are sensational.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLight in body and low in alcohol (ranging from 10.5 to 12%), the wines are aromatically complex and alive, showing berry, plum and black fruit aromas with citrus, licorice, and herbal notes. While there is some relation to the wines of Lapierre and friends in Morgon, Ducroux' wines are consistently brighter and lighter with more changeable aromas, with more acidity and citrus character. Working entirely without sulfur-dioxide, except in problematic vintages, Christian does a small early picking, choosing high acid grapes, which starts the fermentation. A few days later, the mature harvest is added to the vat. This helps to minimize the growth of the acid intolerant Brettanomyces and other schizo-yeasts. There is a roughly one week carbonic maceration followed by a soft pressing. Christian's ethic of farming and winemaking is reflected in his prices, as the health of his family, his animals and his soil, and of course the quality of his wines, are more important to him than financial gain. Thus the low cost of his wines bears no relation to their quality or the amount of work required for their production. Christian is a modern \"paysan\" whose work may seem unrealistic, and yet he points the way towards a more sane agriculture which can be adapted to a larger scale. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHis son Thibault is now making the wines but he's sticking with the same self sufficient, Biodynamic approach. \"Prologue\" is their younger, easier drinking Gamay with a shorter aging time, bottled in February of 2026. It's an ethereal, beautiful wine that has notes of blackberry and cassis, finishing with a stony, mineral freshness. There is zero sulfur and the bloom on this rose may fade within an hour of opening, but the fleeting nature of it only makes it feel more special. Serve with a slight chill. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cem\u003eDavid Lillie and Jonathan Kemp\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Natural Selection","offers":[{"title":"Red","offer_id":48600958206187,"sku":null,"price":22.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/3A51DFF2-2894-4E52-B5B5-ED038DCBCA94.jpg?v=1780084795"},{"product_id":"marc-pesnot-coeur-de-raisin-blanc-2024","title":"Marc Pesnot \"Coeur De Raisin\" Blanc 2024","description":"\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cb\u003ePress 4 Mix\/White • June\/July 2026 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003eMarc Pesnot bought his father's small winemaking operation in the Muscadet appellation back in 1979, and he will be retiring soon, but he has become one of a very small group of natural winemakers in the mostly industrial wine growing area near Nantes. \"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eI used to make uninteresting, bland wines with added commercial yeast,\" he says. \"In the late 1990s, I encountered the \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cspan\u003evins naturels\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, and it was as if I woke up in another country. It was then that I fully realized that for nearly 20 years, despite getting all the accolades, gold medals, etc., I didn’t like the wines I was making. I realized it all starts with a naturally strong vineyard, as I told you, and I stopped using herbicides. This was a sea change right away, in terms of the complexity and concentration of the wines. I never looked back.\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHe is not into official labels, be it organic, biodynamic, or abiding by the Muscadet appellation rules. In most cases, he finds they are too lax. For instance, he uses less copper in the vineyard than is allowed by biodynamic rules because he thinks it is toxic. Similarly, he farms his Melon de Bourgogne at half the yields permitted by the AOC, picking later and allowing malolactic fermentation to occur, unlike most AOC Muscadet. And the wines express the soil in a way only the finest Muscadets can. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\"\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003eMelon is very responsive to the rock it grows on,\" Pesnot explains. \"Especially as the vines get older and their roots deeper — its own aromas are rather neutral, but that’s why it can easily 'pick' the influence of its soil and elevate it, especially with aging.\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003eHis Coeur de Raisin is a younger, fresher take on Muscadet, grown on schist soils. Aged for just a few months before bottling, it's primeur or 'nouveau' style, often bottled in November, with just small dose of sulfur, less than 20 ppm. It's superbly crisp with Granny Smith apple notes but retains a ripe, round profile decorated with flourishes of Meyer lemon, spicy pepper, and the minerality the region is so famous for, despite not being officially sanctioned. \u003cem\u003eInterview courtesy of Jenny and François Imports, tasting notes by Jonathan Kemp\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cb\u003e\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"JENNY \u0026 FRANCOIS 2:30 4cs\/$400","offers":[{"title":"White","offer_id":48602283639019,"sku":null,"price":21.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/E89B42FD-417D-489B-A5BC-B79557CDFD4D.jpg?v=1780084130"},{"product_id":"domaine-de-lecu-muscadet-orthogneiss-2023","title":"Domaine de l'Ecu \"Orthogneiss\" Vin de France 2023","description":"\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cb\u003ePress 4 Mix\/White • June\/July 2026 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eI first encountered Domaine l'Ecu before Fred Niger took over from the original owner, Guy Bossard. Organic for 40 years, biodynamic for 20, Ecu is one of the bright lights of the region, and Fred's tenure has elevated the Ecu name to become a staple of the natural wine community. He is known for frequent collaboration with other winemakers, experimentation with amphora,  and a mind that is finely attuned to the forces of nature. He insists on vineyard practices with low yields, high biodiversity, and harvesting by hand. In the cellar he uses indigenous yeasts, gravity instead of pumps, and the lowest amount of sulfur he can get away with.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDespite being such a dynamic estate, the local AOC is sadly so backwards that after many decades Fred stopped asking to have his wines officially labeled Muscadet. The tasting panel gave him a warning about being atypical, threatening to declassify them, and he beat them to it, deciding it was time to leave for good. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003eDomaine l'Ecu was one of the first and still one of the few to label wines according to the subsoil. Here it is orthogneiss, an igneous rock formation marked with striking bands of dark and light that reflect different minerals such as feldspar and quartz. The sad thing is a wine like Fred's Orthogneiss is a soulful example of the stony, savory brilliance capable in the region, and the AOC is poorer for it's exclusion. \"Minerality\" and Muscadet are so intertwined when learning about wine, and this is one of the finest examples of a wine that tastes like layers of complex minerals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe fruit is ripe and round on the palate with zappy citrus notes, but it's not aromatic — unless you count the steely, flinty smell of stones and minerals. Pair it with oysters, seafood, and discussions of geology. \u003cem\u003eJonathan Kemp\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"POLANER 4PM $300\/3CS","offers":[{"title":"White","offer_id":48602664206571,"sku":null,"price":29.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/A593021E-FD17-4FC7-B4CD-4933A56C6BCB.jpg?v=1780084356"},{"product_id":"bruno-duchene-odin-rouge-cote-vermeille-2024","title":"Bruno Duchene \"Odin\" Rouge Cote Vermeille 2024","description":"\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cb\u003ePress 4 Red • June\/July 2026 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBruno Duchêne has been surrounded by natural wine for most of his life, growing up in the Loire Valley as a neighbor of the Puzelat family, and later working for Fred Cossard in Burgundy. Bruno's first career was in wild mushroom sales and distribution in Burgundy. However, he quit his job and bought vines from the revered natural winemaker Alain Castex in Banyuls in 2002 after he visited a few years earlier, completely infatuated with the region. It is a tourist destination on the southern coast of France near Spain, with signage in French and Catalan, and dramatic cliffs plunging into the Mediterranean. While vineyard work in general is difficult in the steep, rocky plots he owns, the constant winds prevent common mildew issues from occurring. This means organic farming is much easier, and he rarely sprays sulfur and never uses copper, two organic chemicals that winegrowers have to use in most climates but are still best in small doses.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\"Odin\" is a blend of \u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003eTempranillo, Carignan, and Syrah in equal parts, from a single parcel planted on schist. Grapes are destemmed, aged in a combo of old barrel and amphora, with zero sulfur added. Tempranillo, from nearby Spain, is certainly not part of the local Côtes Catalanes AOC, but many are finding it better suited to the changing climate. This wine certainly makes a convincing argument for Tempranillo in the Roussilon. There is a sumptuous, dark richness but it retains some delicate bright overtones. Spicy, piquant, molé notes and chewy tannins make this a bigger red for grilling and pairing with charred meats or vegetables. \u003cem\u003eJonathan Kemp\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"DRESSNER 2:00 3cs\/$300","offers":[{"title":"Red","offer_id":48612440637675,"sku":null,"price":39.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/43BFF20B-56D6-4EA0-8E8A-7CEB007F1EE1.jpg?v=1780337113"},{"product_id":"cyril-fhal-femme-soleil-2024","title":"Cyril Fhal \"Femme Soleil' Blanc 2024","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cb\u003ePress 4 White • June\/July 2026 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCyril Fhal moved to the Roussillon from the Loire in 2002 after working with Mark Angeli of Ferme de Sansonnière and other early natural winemakers. Today he is known as one of the most respected and exacting of natural farmers, in so small part because of the challenges in his region, where rainfall is less than 10 inches per year on average. Despite this he never irrigates and works the soil gently with a horse or hand tiller. His biodynamic and organic methods breathed new life not just into his vines: all of the other growers in his village of Latour de France have converted to organic farming since Cyril's arrival.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCyril feels that the appellation rules don't reflect the history or the present of the Cote Catalanes, as they require at least 30% of Syrah or Mourvèdre, grapes that make for heavy wines without much acidity in a region that is only getting hotter. Cyril, working outside the AOC, proves the region can indeed produce wines with finesse and freshness. He was actually part of the AOC years back, and the estate was called 'Clos du Rouge Gorge' until the AOC forced him to remove 'Clos' from the name, for reasons only a bureaucrat could possibly imagine. Today he forgoes the entire AOC system and is the happier for it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn addition to his estate wines bottles under the Rouge Gorge label, he has a second label under just his name for wines made with purchased fruit from his next door neighbors. True to his workaholic reputation, he actually works the vineyards for all of these contracts. \"Femme Soleil\" is a blend of Macabeo and Grenache Gris planted on clay with limestone and quartz. Aged in equal parts demi-muid, foudrè, and steel, with zero sulfur added. It is salty and textural with notes of pear and lemon verbena and finishes with a stony, cooling sensation that lingers pleasantly. It's a ripe wine from a warm climate but proof that it need not sacrifice elegance or subtle beauty. Maybe the AOC will take notice, but I doubt Cyril is holding his breath.\u003cem\u003e Jonathan Kemp\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"CAMILLE 3:30PM 4cs","offers":[{"title":"White","offer_id":48612448010475,"sku":null,"price":36.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/0C6D207D-1D22-4DD0-ADC9-F3337C8A25C3.jpg?v=1780086514"}],"url":"https:\/\/vwm.wine\/collections\/june-july-2026-direct-press-vdf-declasse-declassified-france.oembed","provider":"Vanderbilt Ave Wine Merchants | 573 Vanderbilt Ave | Brooklyn NY","version":"1.0","type":"link"}