{"title":"Direct Press October 2025: Wind of Change - Central European wines and the Shadow of the Iron Curtain","description":"","products":[{"product_id":"vinas-mora-barbba-croatia-red-2022","title":"Vinas Mora 'Barbba' Croatia Red 2022","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePress 4 Red • \u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e \u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003e\u003cb\u003eOctober\/November 2025 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eVinas Mora is a project based in Primošten, a stunning part of coastal Croatia protected by UNESCO. Figures like Diocletian used to beat a path to this area to relax, eat, and drink well and escape the 9-5 grind of being a Roman Emperor. The project is run by Kreso Petrekovic, a former NY wine importer and sommelier who comes from a Croatian winemaking family—at least in the sense that the family made wine for their own consumption, like many in this region. Vinas Mora took over the neglected local co-op, giving local farmers a much-needed place to continue selling their fruit. Now it is one of the few natural wine projects in the country, and focuses on taking advantage of the incredible local vineyards while preserving the local Babić grape as well as other autochthonous varieties.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e'Barbba' is their fresh, gulpable red, made from Debit, Marastina, Plavina, and Lasin, planted on limestone and dolomite. Kreso wanted to make a wine his friends would want to drink, and as he has lots of friends in the natural wine world in Brooklyn, I am squarely in his target audience. No shocker here to discover I find this wine to be insanely delicious. Light and great with a chill, it has notes of strawberry fruit leather, violets, steeped orange peel, and iced tea. It's a gateway to discovering the enormous untapped winemaking potential of Croatia, and what could be more fitting for such a chuggable style than a magnum? Roll up to any summer party with this to win new friends and influence your uncle. \u003cem\u003eJonathan Kemp\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"ZEV ROVINE 2:30 4cs\/$400","offers":[{"title":"Red","offer_id":45000627683563,"sku":"","price":30.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/image_b0d10294-d318-45b8-86a0-169b23abcaaf.jpg?v=1712948690"},{"product_id":"lenkey-pinceszet-holdvolgy-furmint-2006","title":"Lenkey Pinceszet 'Holdvolgy' Furmint 2006","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePress 2 • October\/November 2025 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Lenkey estate was founded in 1999 by Géza Lenkey Sr. After working side by side with his father Géza Lenkey Jr. took over the estate in 2007. They have 7 vineyards on 15 parcels in the villages of Mád and Bodrogkeresztúr in Tokaj, Hungary totalling 10.4 hectares. The winery was certified organic in 2015 and has not used pesticides or herbicides since 2005.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003eThis Furmint comes from the vineyard site called Holdvölgy and spends 7 mos in used Hungarian oak and is fermented using native yeasts. The wine spends 9 years aging in bottle and was released in 2016. We tasted and fell in love with this wine in 2024, which means it's had a mind blowing total of 18 years in bottle!\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis is a wonderfully complex wine with aromas of ripe golden apple, bees wax, and petrol. The palate is an exquisite rollercoaster ride of ripe golden apples, bees wax, graham cracker, honey, spices, and a hint of flinty smokiness. This is an opulent wine that can flex on it’s own or basically any food you throw at it. Pair with cheese plates, schnitzel, a salad with arugula, chevre, apple and walnut — or get really freaky and have it with pizza on a week night.  \u003cem\u003eJeremy Hernandez\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c!----\u003e","brand":"PALINKERIE 3PM $350","offers":[{"title":"White","offer_id":45522372034795,"sku":"","price":44.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/82FEA0E3-3452-416F-83DF-37FFB6153EDF.jpg?v=1719002372"},{"product_id":"milan-nestarec-postmoderna-red-nv","title":"Milan Nestarec \"Postmoderna\" Red NV","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePress 4 Mix\/Red • Direct Press Selection October\/November 2025\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eMilan Nestarec may be the name on the wine label but his wines are more than the sum of one person’s efforts to make authentic Moravian wine. Milan’s winemaking journey began as far back as he can remember. Due to wine’s presence in his family’s daily lives Milan knew he was destined to be a winemaker. Born in the biggest wine growing village in the Czech Republic where every family made enough wine for their own consumption, his family’s foray into professional winemaking came after they were returned a plot of land that was seized by the the Communist regime during the Velvet Revolution in 1989. This prompted Milan’s father, Milan Sr. to pick up seasonal vineyard work in Germany. Through the connection of the German winery they were able to purchase second hand equipment to ramp up their production and continued buying small plots of land one at a time, despite Milan Jr’s plea for a computer. These acquisitions and increased volume of wine production led to Milan’s father entrusting him with all winemaking decisions at the age of 16.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003eIf you’ve had the opportunity to follow Milan’s wines over the last few years you’d be hard pressed not to notice a gradual development of precision in his wines, which he attributes to his “essence over style” approach.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\"Postmoderna\" is a multi-vintage solera blend of Blaufränkisch from about eight years that is mixed with the current harvest. It's all from different plots and Milan calls it a \"civil debate\" where no plot or vintage speaks more loudly than the others, but gives him a bellwether to measure his winemaking philosophy. Zero sulfur, it is juicy, cruncy, chillable, and crushable; with blueberries, fresh acidity, and a touch of earthy grip. \u003cem\u003eJeremy Hernandez and Jonathan Kemp\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"JENNY \u0026 FRANCOIS 2:30 4cs\/$400","offers":[{"title":"Red","offer_id":46489688178923,"sku":"","price":28.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/A0E7EDAC-6156-4620-BCAA-54BDBDC06BAB.jpg?v=1749508481"},{"product_id":"fekete-bela-harslevelu-2018","title":"Fekete Bela Harslevelu 2018","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003cb\u003ePress 4 Mix\/White • October\/November 2025 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/b\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSometimes we come across wines that seem to good too be true, and this is one of them: one of the final vintages from Bela Fekéte, aka ‘the grand old man of Somló.’ Bela is a nonagenarian who is respected as one of the finest winemakers in this region of Hungary. Somló is the site of an ancient underwater volcano, vines planted around its dome, rising out of the surrounding plain like some kind of destination for heroes in a Tolkein fantasy. It has been home to viticulture for 2000 years and it is Hungary’s smallest but most serious appellation for dry white wine. The wines from Somló are quite distinctive, due in no small part to the unique volcano they come from. They have been written about since 1093 and loved by generations of European royalty (including Maria Theresa and Queen Victoria) for a reason.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis 100% Harslevelu is a stunning and intense wine. Opulent, salty, and honeyed — but very dry. There is a complex backbone of volcanic minerals matched with chamomile, orange peel, and essential oils. The finish is lifted and tangy, with acid that guarantees this wine will age well for a decade if not longer. This wine is actually just starting to come around, in fact. This was the first vintage where Bela was helped by Gábor Riesz, who has now taken over the winery from the nearly 100 year-old Bela, who still offers his advice. By all accounts it seems that Bela's vineyards and cellar are in safe hands with Gábor. \u003cem\u003eJonathan Kemp\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"EKLEKTIKON $300 3PM","offers":[{"title":"White","offer_id":46779836924139,"sku":null,"price":25.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/4982D5A5-713F-420C-9BCB-9D4E7CBCBFA8.jpg?v=1757261913"},{"product_id":"bodrog-bormuhely-dry-tokaj-2023","title":"Bodrog Bormuhely Dry Tokaj 2023","description":"\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePress 4 Mix\/White • Direct Press Selection October\/November 2025\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTokaji, in northeastern Hungary, is the oldest wine appellation in Europe, established in 1732 and pre-dating Bordeaux by 100 years. As such, it is a place of immense pride and unique terroir for making world-class wine. The local passion for excellence in winemaking was interrupted by the Communist era's insistence on bulk production and utility but 30 years later the region is reclaiming its centuries-old reputation. The Communist era did allow for lots of small, family-owned plots in historic areas, however, and that is what János Hajduz and Krisztián Farka are working with for Bodrog Bormuhely, or Bodrog Workshop, named for the Bodrog River that is the lifeblood of Tokaj's vineyards.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThough famous for it's sweet, botrytized wines, this is a more rare example of dry Tokaj that shows off the local volcanic soils. A blend of 70% Furmint and 30% Harslevelu, the main grapes of the region, made all in stainless steel with minimal sulfur. Salty, waxy notes, Marcona almonds, and a very fresh, flinty core. It's vivacious, volcanic, and finishes with bright citrusy acids. \u003cem\u003eJonathan Kemp\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"KNIT $300 3PM","offers":[{"title":"White","offer_id":46928887742699,"sku":null,"price":23.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/EDF1C9EE-AFA9-4260-B250-45E5EA5E7CBC.jpg?v=1696092429"},{"product_id":"monastery-tvrdos-vranac-dry-red-bosnia-and-herzegovina-2018","title":"Monastery Tvrdos \"Vranac\" Dry Red Bosnia and Herzegovina 2018","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePress 4 Mix\/Red • Direct Press Selection October\/November 2025\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNot sure where to start with this wine, so may as well go back to the beginning of the monastery where it is made. It was founded in the 1200s in the southern part of modern-day Bosnia and Herzegovina, and a medieval folk poem celebrated \"its monastic cellars filled with wine\". Today it's still an active Serbian Orthodox monastery complete with a wine cellar dating to the 1500s, and the importers are typically discouraged from taking photos when they visit. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe region, Trebinje, has been making excellent wine for centuries because it's hot in the summer and mild in winter, with vines thriving on the shallow white Herzegovinian \u003cem\u003ekarst\u003c\/em\u003e soil. The monastery mostly works with two native grapes: Žilavka and Vranac. This wine is 100% Vranac, which translates to 'black horse', and the name does echo the dark, animal notes found here. Full bodied, thick, and inky, with black cherry, sage, and spicy pepper notes. What makes it unique is how tangy and energetic it is, with a tension between the richness and the bite that is exciting to drink. It's 15% alcohol but very well integrated, with two years aging in large barrels that are over a 100 years-old. Definitely pair this with some hearty food. \u003cem\u003eJonathan Kemp\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"KNIT $300 3PM","offers":[{"title":"Red","offer_id":46930865160427,"sku":null,"price":29.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/AD4DA1AE-D60E-477E-B8C1-9794E071D319.jpg?v=1759267059"},{"product_id":"jasz-laci-breath-of-the-volcano-hungarian-red-2023","title":"Jasz Laci \"Breath of the Volcano\" Hungarian Red 2023","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003e\u003cb\u003ePress 4 Red• October\/November 2025 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe enigmatic Jász Laci is making some of the most uncompromising wines in Somlo. Despite making some of the most exciting expressions of the region's intense volcanic terroir, his wines never get the Somlo designation. This is because Hungary's wine bureaucracy is even more hardheaded and antagonistic to natural wines than France's. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\"Breath of the Volcano\" is a rare red wine from him and this white-heavy region. 100% Kekfrankos (aka Blaufränkisch) done in steel tank with no temperature control. A month on the skins, no filtration, no sulfur.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis is truly reminiscent of the breath of a volcano with notes of cherry, salt, olive tapenade, lavender florals, paprika, and smoky basalt. That volcanic mineral character is just as present on the palate, at first you're met with what I can only imagine is a cherry sour candy encased in a shell of salt and volcanic mineral. Luckily theres a good amount of fruit and acid to balance out the minerality, with nice mix of herbal complexity. A vivid portrait of what soulful, rustic wines can accomplish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cem\u003eJonathan Kemp \u0026amp; Jeremy Hernandez\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"PALINKERIE 3PM $350","offers":[{"title":"Red","offer_id":46930999050475,"sku":null,"price":27.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/AD4DA1AE-D60E-477E-B8C1-9794E071D319.jpg?v=1759267059"},{"product_id":"lenkey-pinceszet-puritan-2022","title":"Lenkey Pinceszet \"Puritan\" 2022","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePress 4 White • October\/November 2025 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eGeza Lenkey, Jr. had no idea what his father was thinking when he bought a 10 acre vineyard in 1999. The family lived in Budapest and the Tokaj region was a few hours' drive away. But after his father passed away in 2001, Geza Jr. began working in earnest at becoming a vigneron. Since 2005 there have been no chemical sprays used, and the estate was certified organic in 2015. In the years since his father purchased the vineyard, Tokaj has undergone a renewal and it's ancient reputation for world class wines has once again been capturing the attention of wine lovers. Lenkey is arguably making some of the finest, most ageworthy dry wines in Tokaj, in addition to their output of sweet wines that are among the best in the world.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\"Puritan\" is a blend of native varieties that are aromatic, ripen early, and are mostly not included in the offical Tokaj appellation: Muscat Otthonel, Zengő, Zenit, Cserszegi Fűszeres, and Zalagyöngye. It's made with zero added sulfur and spends over two years in tank on the lees. The result is a bracing, layered expression of Tokaj's volcanic soils. Floral, underripe peach, spices, and a toothsome mix of stony minerals and umami. Filigreed, elegant, and with the cut to stand up to complex dishes. Like all of his wines, this is a showstopper; not just a wine that fulfills the potential of Tokaj has been capable of, but for Geza Jr it represents the \"the treasure we inherited from Dad.\" \u003cem\u003eJonathan Kemp\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c!----\u003e","brand":"PALINKERIE 3PM $350","offers":[{"title":"White","offer_id":46931110232299,"sku":null,"price":42.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/0E5D5AA9-8BB4-4441-B9DF-1344629C925B.jpg?v=1759267097"},{"product_id":"oszkar-maurer-crazy-lud-dry-white-serbia-2023","title":"Oszkar Maurer \"Crazy Lud\" Dry White Serbia 2023","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePress 4 White • October\/November 2025 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eTake our word for it, this blend of Syrmia Green, Bakator, Slankamenka, Kevidinka, and Welschriesling from northwest Serbia is not nearly as exotic in taste as it may appear. It’s a super-refreshing easy-drinker, as perfect for a summer day at Coney Island as it is with spicy Thai food in the dead of winter. Bursting with tangerine and Meyer lemon notes, there are hints of peach tea, creamsicle, marmalade, and sour beer as well. Bright, tangy, and just a little salty mineral texture from some skin contact make this about as crowd-friendly as orange wine gets.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eOszkar Maurer’s family has been making wine for four generations in what was part of Hungary until 1920. He works organically and has been helping mentor younger winemakers and assisting them with wine and farming equipment so that they can also showcase the special qualities of the region. Many of his labels feature artwork from children in his home village. ‘Crazy Lud’ has a goose on it because \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003elud\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003e means ‘goose’ in Hungarian and ‘crazy’ in Serbian. It’s inspired by the Hungarian phrase \u003c\/span\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eha lúd, legyen kövér! \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003ewhich means, ‘if it’s a goose, let it be fat’. Go big or go home, essentially. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003ci\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-weight: 400;\"\u003eJeremy Hernandez \u0026amp; Jonathan Kemp\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/i\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"KNIT $300 3PM","offers":[{"title":"Orange • Skin Contact","offer_id":46931141460203,"sku":null,"price":25.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/3C568F87-5E67-4631-8377-99F9AC6DD7C0.jpg?v=1759267613"},{"product_id":"oszkar-maurer-kekfrankos-2022-serbia-red","title":"Oszkar Maurer \"Kekfrankos\" 2022 Serbia Red","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePress 2 • October\/November 2025 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eOszkar Maurer is every bit of the equal of the natural wine legends we hear so much about in France. He is apparently the only winemaker that Noma ever chose to feature with a dinner showcasing his wines solely. He has mentored many younger winemakers in the area and is a champion of the region's 2000 year history and its native grapes, as well as his ancestors' traditions. For Oszkar, working the vineyards has given him a deep sense of purpose that helped him greatly after returning from the army in 1993. \"I was in quite a distraught mental state, seeing as I was coming back from the war. Wine showed me the way home,\" he said in a \u003ca href=\"https:\/\/vimeo.com\/359103402?fl=pl\u0026amp;fe=sh\"\u003eshort film profile by the Terroir Squad\u003c\/a\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHis family has been in the Subotica region of Serbia since the 1800s when they moved from Salzburg in the Austro Hungarian Empire to what is today near the borders of Serbia, Hungary, and Croatia. The Danube River and an ancient volcanic Fruška Gora Mountain, which was an island in the Pannonian Sea have made this part of Europe perfect for wine for thousands of years. His farming is organic and then-some, and the work is all done by hand or with horses. Most of the wines see zero sulfur additions but are rarely funky, which is a testament to Oszkar's meticulous cellar practices.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHis Kekfrankos (aka Blaufränkisch) is simply one of the best expressions of this grape I've come across. Five days of maceration, no pump overs, aged 15 months in small barrels. Dark, silky, and elegant with red plum, cherry, black tea, and hints of vanilla and rooibos. It's a tensile and vivid wine with lithe acidity and a long, satiating finish. It has a light touch but the details and articulation make it really pack a punch in terms of clarity and excitement. Will cut through fatty, rich dishes, but it's graceful enough to be savored on its own like good Burgundy. \u003cem\u003eJonathan Kemp\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"EKLEKTIKON $300 3PM","offers":[{"title":"Red","offer_id":46931221315819,"sku":null,"price":39.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/09DD75F9-FD3F-48D6-9BE8-7EF50C73DC55.jpg?v=1759267695"}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/collections\/OCT_25_Direct_Press_Cover.png?v=1759249661","url":"https:\/\/vwm.wine\/collections\/direct-press-october-2025-wind-of-change-central-european-wines-and-the-shadow-of-the-iron-curtain.oembed","provider":"Vanderbilt Ave Wine Merchants | 573 Vanderbilt Ave | Brooklyn NY","version":"1.0","type":"link"}