Guy Breton Morgon Vieilles Vignes 2021
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Direct Press Selection | November 2022
- Press 2
Guy Breton is one of the members of Beaujolais' much-heralded 'Gang of Four' which includes Jean Foillard, Jean-Paul Thevenet, and the late Marcel Lapierre. They were all following the teachings of Jules Chauvet, who taught about making with without the use of sulfur and eschewing synthetic pesticides and other treatments. The work of the Gang of Four, which started in the early 1980s, signaled a change that is easily traced to the natural wine movement today. The wines of Guy Breton et al. were an inspiration to countless winemakers, who were moved to use similar methods of going back to very old methods of winemaking.
The vines for Breton's old vine Morgon are around 80 years-old, planted on granite. There is a nice combination of spice and rustic crunch with ethereal finesse. Plush strawberry sorbet aromas, blueberry flesh, overripe black plum, and sundried tomatoes. The savory depth and silky tannins give just enough grip but let the wine remain subversively pleasurable. Beautiful balance and lingering umami.
Guy Breton is still showing me why he was such an instrumental figure in the trajectory of wine in the past 30 years. When you taste his wines, you know why the traditional, pre-industrial methods he has employed have been embraced by so many others: who wouldn’t want to try and emulate this? Jonathan Kemp