Cantina Alpina "Pale Mountain" Vigneti delle Dolomiti 2019Regular price $33.00 Save $-33.00
Direct Press Selection | July 2021
- Press 2
It's the dog days of summer in New York so we all need some cold beverages. I love rosé but even more these days I am drawn to this in-between category of wines that are somewhere between a rosé and a red. They have a little more to them than a typical rosé but can still be enjoyed completely chilled down. There's nothing better than watching the condensation dripping on a bottle like this, straight out of the fridge, it's the inverse of the sweat dripping down my neck, and it's going to do my body good. Especially when the inside contents are true to the cartoon mountain on the bottle. This does taste like something run through an icy mountain stream, with Alipine strawberries, cranberries, rosepetals, and invigoratingly fresh acidity. If you look a little further, you'll find some extra complexity. Dusty floral potpourri, medicinal cherry, and elegant umami. It's subtle enough to not distract from the thirst-quenching gulpability, but compelling enough to make this a thoroughly enjoyable bottle of wine to linger over. If you can help yourself from chugging it.
Cantina Alpina is a project of Emilio Zierock and Peter Pastan. Emilio is the son of Elisabetta Foradori and has been making the Foradori wines for a few years now. The fruit is all from Foradori. Peter Pastan is the ower of 2 Amys, the much-loved Neopolitan Pizzeria in Washington, D.C. Does this wine work with pizza? Is the pope Italian? But the pope is Argentine. Where was I? Yes, wine works with pizza.
The blend a long list. Essentially, it's all the grapes that are planted on alluvial soils fermented in clay. It is 55% Schiava, aka Vernatsch, aka Trollinger. Some of the Schiava in this vintage is a clone called Schiava Gentile, and it was fermented and aged in tinaja, basically the Spanish version of a clay amphora. It only clocks in at about 10.5 % abv. There's also some old-vine Schiava, picked in 2018, fermented in steel and aged in older oak. In addition to the two different Schiavas, there's 22% Teroldego that's picked early and pressed off quickly into tinaja. But wait, there's more: 17% Nosiola, a unique local white variety, which also came from the 2018. PHEW. I'm not sure I've ever had a wine that was such a long-winded mix of fruit with such a long technical explanation produce something as ethereal and direct as this. Don't get too caught up in the techincal part, the takeaway is healthy fruit that Emiliio and Peter got from the amazing Foradori vines and made a scrappy but utterly delicious wine with. [Jonathan Kemp, June 2021]