I f&*%ing love Noëlla Morantin. Her wines have a very special place in my heart, as when I was first starting to work with natural wine she was beginning to rent 8.5 hectares from the vineyards that got me into this whole in the first place, Clos Roche Blanche. Though she no longer makes wine from the CRB vineyards, her wines will always have a home with me, as they are vibrant, soulful and utterly delicious.

Stella Maris is Noëlla's everyday drinking Sauvignon, made from grapes purchased from another Loire Valley legend Mikael Bouges. The grapes are gently pressed directly into fiberglass lined vats where the juice ferments and ages on its lees. Bottled unfiltered after about 10 months, and given a Vin de France labeling because she doesn't have time for the politics of the Appellation control board.

The 2020 bottling is a bit of a return to normalcy for this wine, as pervious vintages had been a bit rough and much hotter. Clocking in at 13%, it's got everything I love about unfussy, unmanipulated Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc: picked at proper ripeness to avoid the overly green character assassinating flavors the grape has had to endure for the past 15 years, revealing a wine that is nonetheless bright and high-toned, but takes on a more elegant profile. Medium-bodied with a slightly creamy texture, packed with notes of Anjou Pear, juicy peach and Jasmine Pearl iced tea. [Kirk Sutherland, April 2022]