Martin and Anna Arndorfer "Martha Rouge" Kamptal 2021
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Martin and Anna Arndorfer both come from a long line of winemakers in the Kamptal and Wachau region of Austria, and are thus able to make wine in a wide range of styles, from classic and polished to wild and funky. Some of my favorite wines from them have been the 'daughter wines' named after each of their three daughters. The rosé is named for Marie, the oldest, and the wine is made fermenting Zweigelt with Grüner Veltliner skins, a unique approach that has since spawned several delicious copycats across the globe. The Arndorfers are subversive in this way, pushing the boundaries in the highly-regarded, tradition-laden Kamptal region while keeping an eye on maximum pleasure and preservation of nature.
Martha Rouge, named after their youngest daughter, is a red wine for all intensive purposes but is made from Zweigelt and Sauvignon Blanc. The Zweigelt, whole cluster and semi-carbonic, is co-fermented with crushed Sauvignon Blanc grapes. The result is a wholly original, wildly delicious wine. Juicy with a lot of floral freshness, this gets balanced with more savory elements of red pepper, tarragon, rye, and pappadam. It's an irresistible combination that is as breezily pleasurable as it is engaging and versatile. [Jonathan Kemp, August 2021]