{"title":"APRIL\/MAY 2026 DIRECT PRESS: SUNSHINE NOIR - California wine in the 21st Century","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cimg alt=\"\" src=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/Zine_Two_Page.png?v=1775666279\"\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"text-align: left;\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-family: 'Century Gothic', CenturyGothic, AppleGothic, sans-serif; font-weight: 400; font-style: normal; font-size: 20px;\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSunshine Noir: California Wine in the 2020s\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"font-size: 14px; font-family: Georgia; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); text-decoration-color: currentcolor; text-decoration-style: solid; text-decoration-thickness: auto; text-align: left;\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 18px; font-family: Palatino, 'Palatino Linotype', 'Palatino LT STD', 'Book Antiqua', Georgia, serif; font-weight: 400; font-style: normal;\"\u003e\u003cspan class=\"Apple-converted-space\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 18px; font-family: Palatino, 'Palatino Linotype', 'Palatino LT STD', 'Book Antiqua', Georgia, serif;\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"font-size: 16px; font-family: Georgia; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); text-decoration-color: currentcolor; text-decoration-style: solid; text-decoration-thickness: auto; text-align: left;\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"font-size: 14px; font-family: Georgia; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-align: left;\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"font-size: 14px; font-family: Georgia; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); text-align: left;\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"line-height: 138%;\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 16px; font-family: Georgia, Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-weight: 400; font-style: normal;\"\u003eI feel as if a black rain cloud lurks over my head anytime I find myself in California. And I never feel more like a New Yorker. Strangers waving and saying hello to me in a parking lot? Chatting me up in an elevator? \"What the f@#% is wrong with these people?\" is the thought going through my head, especially in the first 48 hours of arriving in the Golden State. The part of my brain that is constantly scrutinizing and raising a proverbial eyebrow feels very alienated out there. I feel like Daria on the set of Baywatch.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"line-height: 138%;\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 16px; font-family: Georgia, Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-weight: 400; font-style: normal;\"\u003eMy attitude about California wines is no doubt affected by this same cultural clash, though I am constantly working to adjust that bias. I'm not even on the extreme end of the snob spectrum in NYC. That gets confirmed nearly every time I attempt to steer people to a California wine, wherein they unload a lot of prejudicial opinions: too much oak, too much fruit, not enough substance, et cetera. Oh — and too expensive. \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"line-height: 138%;\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 16px; font-family: Georgia, Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-weight: 400; font-style: normal;\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"line-height: 138%;\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 16px; font-family: Georgia, Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-weight: 400; font-style: normal;\"\u003eCalifornia winemakers are up against it in many ways, and combatting the attitudes of New Yorkers is certainly one of the more demeaning. In our defense, we are spoiled here. Since we can buy directly from importers instead of the additional middlemen that tack on extra fees, we get first dibs, and deeper cuts, on anything arriving from Europe. You can get literal boatloads of fantastic wine from Europe for barely $25 in NYC. Organic, tiny production, world class wines: this wine club is a testament to that. And yet we seem to blame our California friends for not matching this. The truth is, they never had a chance, and accepting that it's not a choice is the first step towards embracing, enjoying, and ultimately supporting California's contribution to wine.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"line-height: 138%;\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 16px; font-family: Georgia, Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-weight: 400; font-style: normal;\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"line-height: 138%;\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 16px; font-family: Georgia, Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-weight: 400; font-style: normal;\"\u003eRead more about the glaring differences between making wine in California versus Europe — and learn about the winemakers challenging assumptions about California wines — in this month's issue of Direct Press.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"font-size: 16px; font-family: Georgia; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); text-decoration-color: currentcolor; text-decoration-style: solid; text-decoration-thickness: auto; text-align: left;\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-family: 'Century Gothic', CenturyGothic, AppleGothic, sans-serif; font-weight: 400; font-style: normal;\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 16px;\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"font-size: 16px; font-family: Georgia; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); text-decoration-color: currentcolor; text-decoration-style: solid; text-decoration-thickness: auto; text-align: left;\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-family: 'Century Gothic', CenturyGothic, AppleGothic, sans-serif; font-weight: 400; font-style: normal;\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 16px;\"\u003eBy Jonathan Kemp\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv style=\"font-size: 16px; font-family: Georgia; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); text-decoration-color: currentcolor; text-decoration-style: solid; text-decoration-thickness: auto; text-align: left;\"\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/APRIL_MAY_2026_DIRECT_PRESS_WEB_Final.pdf?v=1775665561\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-family: 'Century Gothic', CenturyGothic, AppleGothic, sans-serif; font-weight: 400; font-style: normal;\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-size: 16px;\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"color: #fff; text-decoration: none; display: inline-block; background: #5A72A1; font-family: Arial, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: bold; line-height: 100%; letter-spacing: 0; margin: 0; text-transform: none; padding: 15px 40px 15px 40px; mso-padding-alt: 0; border-radius: 0;\"\u003eContiue reading\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","products":[{"product_id":"frenchtown-farms-cabernet-merlot-indigeaux-north-yuba-2019","title":"Frenchtown Farms Cabernet Merlot \"Indigeaux\" North Yuba 2019","description":"\u003cdiv dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cb\u003ePress 2 • April\/May 2026 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\nCara and Aaron Mockrish of Frenchtown Farms originally moved to Mendocino to cultivate its main cash crop (cannabis), but their life was altered by a bottle of wine that Gideon Beinstock made at Clos Saron. As they began to seek out more of his wines, they were pulled into a world that they weren't expecting to be drawn into. After making wines with Gideon for a few years, they made their own wines in his cellar, and eventually they moved off the property to pursue their own vision for this isolated terroir. \u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\n\u003cbr\u003eCara and Aaron have an old-school, European vigneron aura. They grow the meat, vegetables and wines that they consume and they walk to the vineyards they farm. They aren’t certified with any organic or biodynamic organizations, because, “you can’t legislate integrity” (a quote they attribute to Virginia farmer Joe Salatin).\u003cspan\u003e \u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003eThey describe their home like this: “North Yuba is comprised of the communities of \u003cspan class=\"il\"\u003eFrenchtown\u003c\/span\u003e, Oregon House, and Dobbins, located about one and a half hours northeast of Sacramento. It is a wild, untamed land, inhabited by humans and our livestock, as well as deer, rabbits, mountain lions, bears, coyotes, and rattlesnakes and a multitude of other creatures. Farming is not easy here, but the terroir is pervasive in the wine, olive oil, meat, and veggies that our community produces.” It's an unforgiving landscape. Blistering hot days bake the granite slopes and cold, windy nights toughen the grape skins. The wines are tannic, powerful, and incredibly acid-driven. They can live a long, long time. Like Gideon’s wines, the \u003cspan class=\"il\"\u003eFrenchtown\u003c\/span\u003e Farms wines are a mouthful of dirt, in the best way; they are terroir wines, and this is incredibly distinctive terroir. \u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\n\u003cspan\u003eIndigeaux is a 60\/40 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from the Renaissance Vineyard — the vineyard that is part of the Fellowship of Friends cult — and it is both an amazing site and one that is extremely hard to work. Cara and Aaron are permitted by the cult to farm these parcels themselves. Though the cult is approves their presence, \"nature does not want you there,\" according to Hayden Hawkins of Bowler Wines, who distributes Frenchtown and has visited Renaissance. \"It's a lot of brambly brush and everything has to be done by hand.\" The results of the struggle are worth it. The wine is aged in old French oak for five years and is bottled with just 22ppm of sulfur. Deep, rich blackberry and vanillin with lots of secondary, sage notes and savory depth. This is juxtaposed with bright, tangy acidity that lifts the wine and gives it a lively, crunchy snap that leaves one going \"wow.\" \u003cem\u003eMatthew Hawkins and Jonathan Kemp\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"BOWLER 4PM $150","offers":[{"title":"Red","offer_id":48032991707371,"sku":null,"price":49.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/8796BC16-FE34-4951-A5BF-1C0E7B0C6B25.jpg?v=1775073617"},{"product_id":"drew-family-cellars-chardonnay-faite-de-mer-farm-radiolaria-2021","title":"Drew Family Cellars Chardonnay Faite De Mer Farm Radiolaria 2021","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cb\u003ePress 2 • April\/May 2026 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDrew Family Cellars was established in 2000 when Jason and Molly Drew discovered an old 26 acre apple orchard in the Mendocino Ridge AVA. They knew that the site of the Faîte De Mer Farm with its ancient oceanic soils, south facing slopes, and location – a mere 3 miles from the coastline – was the perfect location to craft cool climate wines that convey precision and true varietal character. Their farm is certified organic, which continues a 30 year continuity of organic farming on the site.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe 2021 vintage of “Radiolaria” is the first estate Chardonnay from the Drew’s Faîte De Mer Farm. The “Radiolaria” is composed of three different blocks with three different soil types planted to Burgundy clones of Chardonnay; Dijon 548 and Dijon 76, and a Californian clone; Wente. Radiolaria is the term for the ancient sea plankton that comprises these ancient soils that were formed on the seafloor and were pushed up as part of the formation of the Mendocino Coast Ridges. This site is certified organic and regenerative.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe proximity to the coast exerts a clear saline, mineral, citrus influence that is both balanced and intense. Fresh lemon and lime and a touch of pith are complimented by a delicious saline and mineral structure, with just enough of a lactic note to lend a bit of luxuriousness to the finish. The wine ferments on native yeast and goes through malo-lactic conversion. The “Radiolaria” sees 18 months in neutral oak Foudre and seasoned French oak, with 15% new oak. \u003cem\u003e Jeremy Hernandez\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BOWLER 4PM $150","offers":[{"title":"Red","offer_id":48032996196587,"sku":null,"price":65.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/0A1C127B-1586-4FD7-8385-50CEAD04734C.jpg?v=1775073652"},{"product_id":"edmunds-st-john-el-jaleo-red-shake-ridge-ranch-amador-county","title":"Edmunds St John \"El Jaleo\" Red Shake Ridge Ranch Amador County 2021","description":"\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cb\u003ePress 4 Mix\/Red • April\/May 2026 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003eSteve Edmunds is an under-sung California wine legend, who began in the 1980's as one of the 'Rhone Rangers' working with Syrah, Mourvedre, Marsanne, and Gamay in California instead of the Bordeaux or Burgundian varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Even in the aughts when I was just starting in wine, Steve was getting trash-talked for making wines that were \"too French\" in California to being an elder statesman of the new-wave California movement of the past decade, letting the vineyards and the soil come through instead of heavy-handed winemaking. If you ever come across some of his back-vintages, jump on it. I've been fortunate to have tasted his wine back into the 1990s and they are some of the most memorable wines with age I've had.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003eSteve, alas, is retired but I'm very glad we can include the last vintage of his \"El Jaleo\" red in our California wine club. This is from 2021, a year beset with fires, and so he only made this and a rosé. It comes from Shake Ridge Ranch in Amador County, in what wine professionals call \"solar\" conditions; a euphemism for really hot and sunny. To make good wine in this climate means farming has to be super on-point to control things like vine vigor, grape sunburn — and potential alcohol levels that'll land you a DUI on your kid's scooter coming back from the park. The person responsible for that is Ann Kraemer, the dedicated, longtime steward of the organic Shake Ridge vines. Another favorite California winemaker of mine, Angela Osborne from  A Tribute To Grace, also buys fruit from this site.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\"El Jaleo\" is Grenache, Mourvèdre, Tempranillo, and Graciano destemmed and aged in neutral French oak and steel tank. What I love so much about this wine is that it proudly reads as California — borderline jammy with brambly, strawberry notes — but only in how it expresses where it's grown, not in the winemaking. Steve uses this ruddy, healthy fruit to make a Technicolor, vibrant, lip-smacking wine with just enough earth and pepper to balance out the fruit leather and sorbet notes. Steve's humility and tenacity throughout the wild changes in California wine trends over the past 40 years is something I really admire. \u003cem\u003eJonathan Kemp\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BOWLER 4PM $150","offers":[{"title":"Red","offer_id":48033002389739,"sku":null,"price":25.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/CCCCEB69-91BE-4F8D-9400-EB4AC2F5E3CF.jpg?v=1775074073"},{"product_id":"broc-got-grapes-white-2024","title":"Broc Cellars \"Got Grapes\" White 2024","description":"\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePress 4 Mix\/White • April\/May 2026 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eChris Brockway, originally from Omaha, learned winemaking at UC Davis and Cal State Fresno, where he learned how to add all the things to wine that he insists on not adding to his own wines at Broc Cellars in Berkeley. His wife and business partner Bridget Leary grew up in Berkeley where her mom had a café and Bridget helped her open a wine bar. When she met Chris she had no idea anyone was actually making wine in Berkeley. Now she and Chris are making some of the most exciting wines in California in their Berkeley cellar. They have come to define the 'new wave' of California winemaking with wines that pull back on overripe gobs of fruit, alcohol, and instead put freshness and finesse at the forefront.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe “Got Grapes” White 2024 is an excellent example of their freshness and finesse. This vintage is an invigorating blend of 85% Orange Muscat (a cross of Chasselas X Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains), 12% Chardonnay, and 3% Chenin Blanc from Hartwick Vineyard in Lodi, CA. The organically grown grapes see a light footstomping and are gently pressed into a stainless steel tank and fermented on its native yeasts and left to develop and age for 5 months.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis vintage of “Got Grapes” grabbed us immediately with aromas of bright and intense citrus bringing to mind fresh squeezed Grapefruit, Satsuma, Squirt Soda, and Hi-C’s Ecto Cooler. The palette echoes these notes and adds a dose of sunshine \u003c\/span\u003ewith a pleasant mineral underpinning\u003cspan\u003e. I cannot wait to break this out at my next sunny weekend hang. \u003cem\u003eJonathan Kemp \u0026amp; Jeremy Hernandez\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BOWLER 4PM $150","offers":[{"title":"Red","offer_id":48033015300331,"sku":null,"price":21.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/B98A2549-DA64-41EB-A0E2-E04E09923823.jpg?v=1775074113"},{"product_id":"absentee-winery-balou-2023","title":"Absentee Winery \"Balou\" 2023","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cb\u003ePress 4 Red • April\/May 2026 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvi Deixler founded his Absentee winery in 2016 with the goal of crafting natural and honest wine in Point Reyes, California. Avi maintains his own cooperage and ferments in barrels. He uses only organically farmed grapes that see a tiny bit of elemental sulfur in the vineyards and never adds sulfur to his wines.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe “Balou” 2023 is a Syrah dominant blend with some petite verdot and carignan added to the mix. The fruit is purchased from the sandy soils of the Poor Ranch in Hopland, Mendocino, California. The vines are 10-40 years old, dry farmed, and have been organic since the ranch’s inception in the 1970’s. Grapes are hand picked and fermented whole cluster in raw oak barrels and barrel rolled for 10 days. They are then pressed and the juice goes back into raw oak barrel for a year. Unfined, unfiltered, with no additives whatsoever.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis vintage of Balou sings with ripe dark berry fruits, and spice. In the glass it’s a juicy, spicy, medium body dose of California terroir with a hint of coconut from the raw oak. This is a great burger and bbq wine for your next summer hang.  \u003cem\u003eJeremy Hernandez\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"FIFI 2:30 $400","offers":[{"title":"Red","offer_id":48033135591659,"sku":null,"price":35.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/D5F1D25C-F960-439D-BC6C-5E7468AC9BC3.jpg?v=1775074152"},{"product_id":"frenchtown-farms-limited-hangout-sierra-foothills-2024","title":"Frenchtown Farms \"Limited Hangout\" Sierra Foothills 2024","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cb\u003ePress 4 White • April\/May 2026 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAaron \u0026amp; Cara Mockrish landed in North Yuba County in the mid-2000’s with the dream of starting a farm. After a fateful bottle of Clos Saron Black Pearl 2008 they were set on an entirely new path when they discovered the winemaker, Gideon Beinstock, lived close to them. Gideon was the former winemaker at the infamous Renaissance Vineyards run by the cult “The Fellowship of Friends”, check out the podcast Revelations for more dish on them. After a mentorship from Gideon, the Mockrish’s made their first vintage in 2015 and were able to establish a relationship with the Renaissance Vineyard as the stewards of a few blocks of own-rooted and dry-farmed vines.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Limited Hangout is comprised of Picpoul (40%), Chenin Blanc (40%), and Petit Manseng (20%) from Saureel Vineyard in the 'Gold Hill' district of Placerville, Sierra Foothills. The vineyard is planted at 1650' elevation on decomposed granite soils, and is farmed organically. The fruit was harvested (by Frenchtown) in 3 passes and undergoes a slow and long pressing which extracts some color, then fermented in stainless before aging for 10 months in stainless and neutral French oak.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eI absolutely loved this wine. It’s a great portrait of the intense sun and terroir of the Sierra Foothills. Concentrated and intense orchard and stone fruits, honey suckle, and a whisper of smoke make for a complex nose. Those concentrated and ripe fruits are in the glass as well, lending depth and complexity that are lifted up by notes of ginger, fresh herbs, and a hint of white pepper. \u003cem\u003eJeremy Hernandez\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BOWLER 4PM $150","offers":[{"title":"White","offer_id":48033301299435,"sku":null,"price":26.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/53F15969-C79A-4F32-8F52-AC7990B82E2D.jpg?v=1775074187"},{"product_id":"ruth-lewandowski-stock-pot-gruner-veltliner-2023","title":"Ruth Lewandowski \"Stock Pot\" Gruner Veltliner 2023","description":"\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cb\u003ePress 4 Mix\/White • April\/May 2026 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\"I love her wines\" is a familiar phrase we hear about Evan Lewandowski's wines, and it's always a little tricky to explain how Ruth is not the winemaker or a relative, but a reference to the Old Testament Book of Ruth, which is a tale of redemption Evan finds inspiring. He explains, \"w\u003cspan\u003eithout sounding 'preachy' and so as not to offend the sensitive, and in the interest of concisely summing things up, I don't believe there to be a deeper, more compelling depiction of the natural cycle of death and redemption (both in the physical realm we can see and the spiritual realm we often do not) than this one short book. \u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003eFrom the wreckage of death and tragedy at the beginning of the book of Ruth, a young woman finds life, finds beauty and is able to truly live....not simply in spite of the death, but because the death occurred at all. The regeneration of the life of our soils occurs only through organic matter...all completely dead, broken down carbon-based items. A natural fermentation is the building up and dying off of multiple strains of yeast and bacteria, each paving the way for the next strain to take over (and each leaving their altogether unique signatures of flavor, aroma, and textural compounds).\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003eAnd though a decade ago or so Evan was talking about the potential for making wine in his home state of Utah, he has instead gone all in on California. Like anyone making wine, maybe even more so for natural wine, there has been an evolution to Evan's project, and if you haven't tasted the wines recently you are in for a treat. The whole range is exceptional. Nearly all the wines still are made without added sulfur, but they are less funky and more expressive, while maintaining their exciting, thirst-quenching irreverence.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\"Stock Pot\" is Grüner Veltliner from the Rancho Coda vineyard in Russian River Valley, Sonoma. There's no shortage of serviceable Grüner out there, but I don't come across many that really feel new and attention-grabbing. This spends about 10 days on the skins, just enough to give it a bit of texture. Salty and cloudy with notes of citrus zest, Sunny-D, chicken broth (fits with the Crock Pot-inspired label), savory spices, and a refreshingly zappy finish. \u003cem\u003eJonathan Kemp\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"ZEV ROVINE 2:30 4cs\/$400","offers":[{"title":"Orange • Skin Contact","offer_id":48033326104811,"sku":null,"price":36.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/12D26560-0657-4D4C-B70A-4295C779B9AA.jpg?v=1775074217"},{"product_id":"old-world-winery-ecstatic-consciousness","title":"Old World Winery \"Ecstatic Consciousness\" Mendocino 2022","description":"\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cb\u003ePress 4 Mix\/Red • April\/May 2026 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDarek Trowbridge began his viticultural training in 1987 under the wing of his uncle, Lee Martinelli — yes, the owner of Martinelli Winery. By 1993, he’d earned a Bachelor’s Degree in Viticulture from Cal Poly, followed by a Master’s in Enology from Fresno State in 1997. But what he learned was that there’s quite the difference between the natural practices his own grandfather (Lino Martinelli) had employed and the manufacturing practices the schools were teaching. So he went forth and established the aptly-named Old World Winery 25 years ago, with the intention of reestablishing those natural winemaking processes. OWW has been employing ambient yeast\/wild fermentation, utilizing biodynamic practices, and thwarting chemical applications ever since. Using 120 year old field blends and rare varietals, Darek has mastered the art of letting his wines shine naturally.\u003cspan class=\"Apple-converted-space\"\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"Apple-converted-space\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan class=\"Apple-converted-space\"\u003eHowever, his approach has not come without friction with his more conventional-minded family, who in some cases stopped selling him fruit because they disapproved of Darek's winemaking. Not to mention that Darek began his project at a time when 'natural wine' wasn't even a term, meaning he was pretty isolated. These days, he's still not as well-known as he probably should be, given the exciting lineup of wines available from him.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan class=\"Apple-converted-space\"\u003e\"Ecstatic Consciousness\" is a name that certainly screams California, and yet the wine defies most other California stereotypes. It's blend of Zinfandel, Syrah, and Merlot but also includes a field blend of 120 year-old vines and the obscure Basque variety Abouriou that Darek's great grandfather planted in Sonoma. Blueberry, cherry, plum, and fruit leather notes all in a super snappy, lip-smacking package that expresses California's climate in a way that feels new and engaging. Aged in neutral barrel, minimal sulfur added. \u003cem\u003eDemi Elder and Jonathan Kemp\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"ZEV ROVINE 2:30 4cs\/$400","offers":[{"title":"Red","offer_id":48033327513835,"sku":null,"price":27.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/39BF994A-B0AA-452A-AC70-91B3F3137BF4.jpg?v=1775074248"},{"product_id":"stagiare-sequences-and-series-santa-cruz-mountains-cab-sauv-2023","title":"Stagiare \"Sequences and Series\" Santa Cruz Mountains Cab Sauv 2023","description":"\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cb\u003ePress 4 Red • April\/May 2026 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBrent Mayeaux named his project Stagiare — French for intern or apprentice — after his time working for wineries in France and Australia. He came back to the US in 2018 with the goal of finding his own vineyards to farm in California. Though \u003cem\u003ede rigueur\u003c\/em\u003e in France, this is nearly impossible in California because of the staggering costs. For a while he did manage to only make wine from sites that he farmed, but he was driving all over Northern California to do it, and the logistics became exhausting and unsustainable. Now he goes the route of most winemakers in California, purchasing fruit from sites that meet his standards and have unique terroir that comes through in the wines. For the moment he makes the wines on Treasure Island in the San Francisco Bay, which is not as fabulous as it sounds; more like if some of the warehouses between Bushwick and Maspeth were on Roosevelt Island.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'San Francisco', 'Segoe UI', Roboto, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif; font-size: 0.875rem;\"\u003eSequences and Series is Cabernet Sauvignon from the Santa Cruz Mountains, and you will quickly be able to tell this is nothing like Cabernet from Napa. \"It's from a very cold site from a very cold year,\" Brent says. \"After waiting as long as possible to harvest, we picked it in late October, and the wine barely clocks in at 12% alcohol. Vines are in super rocky thin volcanic soils and produce very little fruit.\" It tastes very Alpine to me, almost more like Mondeuse than Cabernet. There is a nice brambly, blackberry quality, however, and it's got a lean, energetic profile that is the opposite of the torpid Napa Cabs that have dominated the conversation for too long. As with all of the Stagiare wines, zero sulfur or anything is added. \"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cmeta charset=\"utf-8\"\u003e\u003cspan style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'San Francisco', 'Segoe UI', Roboto, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif; font-size: 0.875rem;\"\u003eIf we have good grapes, why add anything to them in the cellar?\" says Brent. Stagiare is on the cutting edge of the California natural wine scene, and this wine is a great example of why.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem style=\"font-family: -apple-system, BlinkMacSystemFont, 'San Francisco', 'Segoe UI', Roboto, 'Helvetica Neue', sans-serif; font-size: 0.875rem;\"\u003e Jonathan Kemp\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"TERRESTRIAL 4CS 3PM","offers":[{"title":"Red","offer_id":48033337049323,"sku":null,"price":36.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/A4A3513E-CE96-4480-8A95-14C5EEC92545.jpg?v=1775074290"},{"product_id":"florez-star-drops-mendocino-chardonnay-2024","title":"Florez \"Star Drops\" Mendocino Chardonnay 2023","description":"\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\u003cb\u003ePress 4 White • April\/May 2026 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/b\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003eOne of our favorite Californians of late has been James Jelks of Florez. He is a native son of Santa Cruz, went to UC Davis for winemaking school, and makes his wines in Santa Cruz in the same space as Megan Bell of Margins, another of our faves. James only works with vineyards that are dry-farmed, not irrigated, and he works with farmers pushing them gently towards more natural viticultural practices if they aren't already working organically. His wines always have a levity and joyful quality, which matches his vibe in person. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"p1\"\u003e\"Star Drops\" Chardonnay shows off his ability to nail the classic details that people love about Chardonnay from Santa Cruz Mountains but he also isn't afraid to let the wine feel alive, with the little extra edge of danger that working natural wine can sometimes bring. Not funk, exactly, just a suggestion of volatility and a sizzle of attitude. The is made in old barrels and has some butterfat and roasted cashew notes; however there are Alpine notes from the colder mountain climate that adds herbal spice, minerals, and the sensation of fresh snow. The tension between the citrusy acid and the creamy body is dialed in to delicious perfection. Small sulfur addition at bottling. \u003cem\u003eJonathan Kemp\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"JENNY \u0026 FRANCOIS 2:30 4cs\/$400","offers":[{"title":"White","offer_id":48033348747499,"sku":null,"price":35.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/5AD8BBA4-CE11-40FA-B736-D8C3D9CBEB3B.jpg?v=1775074326"},{"product_id":"broc-cellars-got-grapes-white-2025","title":"Broc Cellars \"Got Grapes\" White 2025","description":"\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePress 4 Mix\/White • April\/May 2026 Direct Press Selection\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eChris Brockway, originally from Omaha, learned winemaking at UC Davis and Cal State Fresno, where he learned how to add all the things to wine that he insists on not adding to his own wines at Broc Cellars in Berkeley. His wife and business partner Bridget Leary grew up in Berkeley where her mom had a café and Bridget helped her open a wine bar. When she met Chris she had no idea anyone was actually making wine in Berkeley. Now she and Chris are making some of the most exciting wines in California in their Berkeley cellar. They have come to define the 'new wave' of California winemaking with wines that pull back on overripe gobs of fruit, alcohol, and instead put freshness and finesse at the forefront.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe “Got Grapes” White 2024 is an excellent example of their freshness and finesse. This vintage is an invigorating blend of 85% Orange Muscat (a cross of Chasselas X Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains), 12% Chardonnay, and 3% Chenin Blanc from Hartwick Vineyard in Lodi, CA. The organically grown grapes see a light footstomping and are gently pressed into a stainless steel tank and fermented on its native yeasts and left to develop and age for 5 months.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp dir=\"ltr\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis vintage of “Got Grapes” grabbed us immediately with aromas of bright and intense citrus bringing to mind fresh squeezed Grapefruit, Satsuma, Squirt Soda, and Hi-C’s Ecto Cooler. The palette echoes these notes and adds a dose of sunshine \u003c\/span\u003ewith a pleasant mineral underpinning\u003cspan\u003e. I cannot wait to break this out at my next sunny weekend hang. \u003cem\u003eJonathan Kemp \u0026amp; Jeremy Hernandez\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"BOWLER 4PM $150","offers":[{"title":"Red","offer_id":48477599662315,"sku":null,"price":21.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/1270\/3173\/files\/1ECE6696-EB14-43DB-BB9A-F5AF1A15A8D8.jpg?v=1779568355"}],"url":"https:\/\/vwm.wine\/collections\/april-may-2026-direct-press-sunshine-noir-california-wine-in-the-21st-century.oembed","provider":"Vanderbilt Ave Wine Merchants | 573 Vanderbilt Ave | Brooklyn NY","version":"1.0","type":"link"}