Testalonga Vino Bianco 2022

Press 2 • May 2024 Direct Press Selection

We pride ourselves on sourcing wines for our members that are difficult to find, and this one is surely one of the smallest productions around. Antonio Perrino works under 1 hectare of vines, about the size of a soccer field, in some of the most rugged terraces in Europe. It should be noted that Antonio is nearly 80 years old, though his daughter Erica is now helping him. They make just seven barrels total each year in a tiny garage in Liguria, the majority being his red Rossese di Dolceaqcua. Meaning this white wine is in even shorter supply. I've only had it once before, in Torino at one of the best natural wine-focused restaurants in the area, called Consorzio. It's a very memorable and unique wine, in part due to the fact that Antonio never veered from the winemaking techniques his father taught him over 50 years ago. 

The Bianco is 100% Vermentino from vines planted among 1000 olive trees Antonio also cultivates. It spends four days on the skins and is aged in barrel for a year before bottling. There is an iced tea quality, or maybe an Arnold Palmer vibe to the wine, with lots of tannin. If you close your eyes it's easy to imagine it's a red wine. There's a touch of gingersnappy Brettanomyces in the mix, adding complexity and intrigue. It is quite memorable but also delicious and refreshing. Jonathan Kemp